The cleansing oil that turned pore extraction into a spectator sport. Anua's viral hero product earns its hype with an effective, lightweight formula that genuinely dissolves sebaceous filaments and daily grime — but the fragrance as the 6th ingredient and the comedogenic base oil mean it is not the universal crowd-pleaser its TikTok fame suggests. For the right skin type, it is excellent. For sensitive or acne-prone skin, proceed with informed caution.
Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil
The cleansing oil that turned pore extraction into a spectator sport. Anua's viral hero product earns its hype with an effective, lightweight formula that genuinely dissolves sebaceous filaments and daily grime — but the fragrance as the 6th ingredient and the comedogenic base oil mean it is not the universal crowd-pleaser its TikTok fame suggests. For the right skin type, it is excellent. For sensitive or acne-prone skin, proceed with informed caution.
Score Breakdown
Where this product gains points and where it loses them — broken down across the four scoring pillars.
A highly effective and affordable cleansing oil that excels at dissolving makeup, sunscreen, and sebaceous filaments. The plant oil blend is well-chosen, but the inclusion of fragrance as the 6th ingredient and the comedogenic potential of ethylhexyl palmitate limit the irritation and suitability scores. The massive volume of positive real-world feedback supports a strong overall rating.
Pros & Cons
- ✓Genuinely effective at dissolving sebaceous filaments, makeup, and sunscreen
- ✓Lightweight, silky texture that emulsifies and rinses completely clean
- ✓Excellent value at $22 for 200ml with 3-4 months of nightly use
- ✓Multiple size options including a travel mini and jumbo size
- ✓Pump dispenser is well-designed, consistent, and hygienic
- ✓Massive real-world validation with 45,000+ reviews across platforms
- ✓Made oil cleansing accessible and enjoyable for first-timers
- ✗Fragrance as the 6th ingredient is a significant inclusion for sensitive skin
- ✗Ethylhexyl palmitate base has moderate comedogenic potential (rating 2-4)
- ✗Some acne-prone users report breakouts after introducing this product
- ✗Not sufficient alone for removing very heavy or waterproof makeup
- ✗Extended massage beyond 2 minutes can compromise the skin barrier
- ✗Olive oil in the blend adds additional comedogenic concern
Full Review
Before this cleansing oil existed, oil cleansing was something your friend who studied abroad in Seoul tried to explain to you at brunch while you nodded politely and changed the subject. Then TikTok discovered the Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil, and suddenly millions of people were filming close-ups of their noses, marveling at the tiny gritty balls emerging from their pores during a sixty-second oil massage. The gritting video genre was born, and Anua went from a small Korean brand to a global phenomenon with the number one selling cleansing oil on Amazon.
The premise is disarmingly simple. You apply a few pumps of lightweight oil to dry skin, massage in circular motions for about a minute, and the oil dissolves the sebum, sunscreen, and makeup sitting on and inside your pores. When you hit areas with congestion — typically the nose, chin, and inner cheeks — you feel small, sandy-textured grits forming under your fingertips. These are dissolved sebaceous filaments, the tiny columns of sebum and dead skin cells that occupy every pore on your face. They are not blackheads in the clinical sense, though they look similar, and they will refill within a day or two because that is what pores do. The satisfaction of feeling them dissolve, however, is genuinely compelling, and the skin underneath is visibly smoother.
The formula is built on ethylhexyl palmitate, a synthetic ester that serves as the primary dissolving medium. It is lightweight and fluid compared to mineral oil-based cleansing oils, which gives this product its signature silky, non-heavy texture. The emulsification system — sorbeth-30 tetraoleate and sorbitan sesquioleate — allows the oil to turn milky when you add water and rinse away cleanly without leaving a greasy film. This is where the product shines: the sensory experience is excellent. The oil feels luxurious but not heavy, it emulsifies completely, and it rinses without residue.
The plant oil blend adds depth to the base. Jojoba seed oil mimics human sebum composition, theoretically helping to regulate oil production. Sunflower seed oil brings linoleic acid, which research suggests can improve sebum quality in acne-prone skin. Grape seed oil, macadamia oil, olive oil, and moringa oil round out the blend with varying fatty acid profiles and antioxidant contributions. Houttuynia cordata extract — the heartleaf that gives the product its name — provides anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties at 1%, which is a modest but not insignificant concentration in a rinse-off product.
Now, the uncomfortable truths. Fragrance appears sixth in the ingredient list. In a twenty-two ingredient formula, sixth is not a trace amount — it indicates a deliberate aromatic concentration. The scent is herbal and pleasant to most users, but fragrance is the single most common cause of contact allergy in cosmetics, and its inclusion in a product that involves extended skin contact during massage is worth noting. For a brand that markets heavily to sensitive and acne-prone skin, this feels like a concession to marketability over formulation purity.
The ethylhexyl palmitate base also warrants honest discussion. It carries a comedogenic rating of 2-4 depending on the source, which means it has moderate pore-clogging potential. The majority of users — including many with oily skin — use this product daily without issues, and the rinse-off format reduces the risk compared to a leave-on product. But a meaningful minority of acne-prone users report breakouts after introducing this oil into their routine, and the base ingredient is the most likely culprit. If you have a history of comedonal acne (the closed, bump-type), approach with caution and patch test.
The viral fame has created expectations that no product can fully meet. Some users expect the oil to permanently eliminate pores or cure blackheads, neither of which is possible through cleansing alone. Sebaceous filaments are a normal part of skin function, not a problem to be solved. The oil manages them beautifully — dissolving the contents and leaving pores temporarily cleaner — but they refill as part of the skin's natural process. Setting realistic expectations is important: this is a very effective daily first cleanser that also provides a satisfying pore-clearing bonus, not a miracle treatment.
At twenty-two dollars for 200ml, with a 20ml travel size and 350ml jumbo also available, the value is strong. Three to four months of nightly use from the standard bottle makes this one of the more economical cleansing oils on the market, and the pump dispenser is well-designed — consistent output, no dripping, hygienic. The product has earned its position through genuine performance at an accessible price point.
Anua deserves credit for making oil cleansing appealing to a generation that grew up fearing oil on their face. The product works, the price is right, and the experience is genuinely enjoyable. The fragrance and comedogenic base prevent it from being the universally safe recommendation that its popularity might suggest, but for the many skin types that tolerate it well, this cleansing oil delivers exactly what the viral videos promise — clean pores, dissolved grime, and that uniquely satisfying gritting sensation that turns a mundane PM cleanse into something you actually look forward to.
Formula
Key Ingredients
The hero actives that drive this product's performance.
| Ingredient | Function | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Houttuynia Cordata (Heartleaf) Extract (1%) | Anua's signature botanical at 10,000 ppm provides anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that help soothe pores during the oil cleansing massage. In this first-cleanser context, heartleaf extract addresses the inflammatory component of clogged pores while the oil base dissolves the sebum plugs themselves. | promising |
| Ethylhexyl Palmitate | The primary emollient and solvent base, positioned first in the INCI list. This synthetic ester dissolves makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum through the like-dissolves-like principle. It provides a lightweight, non-heavy texture compared to traditional mineral oil-based cleansing oils, though it carries a moderate comedogenic rating that may concern acne-prone users. | well-established |
| Jojoba Seed Oil | A wax ester that closely mimics human sebum composition. In this cleansing oil, jojoba helps regulate sebum production by signaling to the skin that adequate oil is present, potentially reducing overproduction. Its structural similarity to skin oils also helps dissolve sebaceous filaments more effectively than dissimilar oil types. | well-established |
| Sunflower Seed Oil | Rich in linoleic acid, which acne-prone skin is often deficient in. Topical linoleic acid application has been shown to improve the fatty acid composition of sebum, making it less viscous and less likely to clog pores — directly supporting the pore-clearing action this cleansing oil is designed for. | promising |
| Tocopherol (Vitamin E) | Acts as an antioxidant stabilizer that prevents the plant oils in the formula from oxidizing and becoming rancid. Also provides mild skin-conditioning and anti-inflammatory benefits during the cleansing massage. | well-established |
Full INCI List
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyl Avocadate, Fragrance, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Product Flags
✗ Fragrance Free✓ Alcohol Free✗ Oil Free✓ Silicone Free✓ Paraben Free✓ Sulfate Free✓ Cruelty Free✓ Vegan✗ Fungal Acne Safe
Comedogenic Ingredients
Ethylhexyl PalmitateOlea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Potential Irritants
Fragrance
Common Allergens
Fragrance
Compatibility
Skin Match
Best For
Works For
Not Ideal For
Addresses These Conditions
blackheads large pores oiliness dullness
Use With Caution
Routine Step
cleanser
Time of Day
PM
Pregnancy Safe
Yes ✓
Layering Tips
Use as the first step in a PM double-cleansing routine. Apply to dry skin and massage for 60-90 seconds to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and sebaceous filaments. Add water to emulsify, then rinse. Always follow with a water-based second cleanser to remove residual oil and emulsifier.
Results Timeline
Immediate: makeup and sunscreen dissolve completely; sebaceous filament 'grits' may appear during massage. 1-2 weeks: pores appear cleaner and less congested with consistent daily use. 4-6 weeks: visible reduction in blackheads and overall pore appearance.
Pairs Well With
Water-based gel or foam second cleanserBHA toner after double cleansingClay masks (alternate days)
Sample AM Routine
- Water-based cleanser
- Toner
- Serum
- Moisturizer
- Sunscreen
Sample PM Routine
- THIS PRODUCT (first cleanse)
- Water-based cleanser (second cleanse)
- Toner or BHA
- Serum
- Moisturizer
Evidence
Science & Expert Perspective
The Science
The oil cleansing method operates on the principle of 'like dissolves like' — nonpolar oil-based impurities (sebum, sunscreen filters, makeup) dissolve more readily in nonpolar solvents than in water-based cleansers. Ethylhexyl palmitate, the primary solvent in this formula, is a synthetic ester with excellent spreading properties and the ability to solubilize a wide range of lipophilic substances.
The sebaceous filament extraction that made this product famous involves the dissolution of the sebum and keratin plugs that normally occupy pores. Research published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology has characterized these structures as a natural part of pilosebaceous unit function, distinct from comedones (true blackheads). They refill within 24-72 hours, which is why consistent daily use is necessary for ongoing visual improvement.
Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis seed oil) is structurally similar to human sebum, composed primarily of wax esters rather than triglycerides. A study in the Forschende Komplementarmedizin journal found that jojoba oil application can influence sebum production and has anti-inflammatory properties. Sunflower seed oil is rich in linoleic acid, and a study published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology demonstrated that topical linoleic acid application improved the linoleic acid to oleic acid ratio in comedonal sebum, with some subjects showing improvement in microcomedone size.
Houttuynia cordata has been studied for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Research published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology demonstrated that Houttuynia cordata extract inhibits NF-κB-mediated inflammatory pathways and shows activity against Staphylococcus aureus and other skin pathogens. At the 1% concentration in this rinse-off product, the anti-inflammatory contribution is present but brief.
References
- Effect of linoleic acid on comedone size — Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2014)
- Anti-inflammatory activity of Houttuynia cordata — Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014)
Dermatologist Perspective
Dermatologists generally support oil cleansing as an effective first step in a double-cleansing routine, particularly for removing oil-based sunscreens and makeup that water-based cleansers may leave behind. Board-certified dermatologists would note that this product's emulsification system allows for thorough removal of both the dissolved impurities and the cleansing oil itself when followed by a water-based second cleanser. The fragrance inclusion would be flagged by most dermatologists as unnecessary in a cleanser, particularly one marketed for pore-prone skin. Regarding the sebaceous filament extraction, dermatologists emphasize that these are normal structures that refill naturally — oil cleansing manages their appearance but does not eliminate them. Dermatologists would recommend this product as part of a complete routine rather than a standalone treatment for pore concerns.
Guidance
Usage Guide
How to Use
Apply 2-3 pumps to dry hands, then massage onto a dry face in gentle circular motions. Focus on areas of congestion — nose, chin, forehead — for 60-90 seconds. Do not exceed 2 minutes of massage. Add a small amount of lukewarm water and continue massaging to emulsify the oil into a milky texture. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Always follow immediately with a water-based second cleanser to remove any residual emulsifier and dissolved impurities. Use nightly as the first step in your PM double-cleansing routine.
Value Assessment
At $22 for 200ml, this is one of the most affordable name-brand cleansing oils on the market, especially considering the plant oil blend (jojoba, sunflower, grape seed, macadamia, moringa). The 200ml bottle provides 3-4 months of nightly use, bringing the per-use cost below $0.25. A 20ml travel size ($9.99 at Ulta) allows for risk-free trial, and a 350ml jumbo size on Olive Young Global offers even better per-ml value. K-beauty retailers like ohlolly frequently discount to $14-15, making the value proposition even stronger. For an emerging brand, the massive review volume and multi-year track record provide confidence that justifies the price.
Who Should Buy
Anyone who wears daily sunscreen or makeup and wants an effective, affordable first cleanser. Particularly rewarding for those with visible sebaceous filaments on the nose and chin who want the satisfying pore-clearing experience. Works well for normal, combination, and oily skin types comfortable with a fragranced product.
Who Should Skip
Those with fragrance sensitivity should look for a fragrance-free cleansing oil alternative. Users with a history of comedonal acne (closed comedones, bumps under the skin) should patch test carefully, as the ethylhexyl palmitate base has moderate pore-clogging potential. Not recommended for fungal acne-prone skin.
Ready to try Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil?
Details
Details
Texture
Lightweight, fluid golden oil with a slightly greenish tint. Thinner and silkier than many cleansing oils — more like a light massage oil. Emulsifies to a milky white when water is added and rinses clean.
Scent
Herbal-botanical aroma with green and slightly floral notes from the added fragrance and heartleaf extract. Noticeable but not overwhelming for most users.
Packaging
Sturdy opaque green pump bottle (200ml) with Anua's minimalist design. The pump dispenses a consistent amount and does not clog or drip. Also available in a 20ml travel size and 350ml jumbo size.
Finish
non-greasylightweightnatural
What to Expect on First Use
On first use, the oil feels immediately lighter than expected. After 60-90 seconds of massage on dry skin, you may notice small, gritty particles forming under your fingertips — these are sebaceous filaments being dissolved and extracted, the phenomenon that made this product go viral on TikTok. Emulsification is smooth and rinse is clean. Skin feels soft and refreshed, not stripped. Some users may experience a brief adjustment period of 1-2 weeks where pores purge before clearing.
How Long It Lasts
3-4 months with nightly use
Period After Opening
12 months
Best Season
All Year
Certifications
Hypoallergenic testedNon-comedogenic testedNon-irritation tested
Background
The Why
The Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil is the product that transformed a small Korean skincare brand into a global phenomenon. Launched around 2022, it went viral on TikTok when users began filming the 'gritting' process — showing the tiny sebaceous filament plugs that emerge during the oil massage. These videos, accumulating hundreds of millions of views, made oil cleansing accessible and visually compelling to an audience that had never considered it. The product became the #1 cleansing oil on Amazon US and an Olive Young bestseller in Korea.
About Anua Emerging Brand (2–5 years)
Anua launched in 2020 and this cleansing oil became the product that put the brand on the global map. It went viral on TikTok in 2023-2024 with videos showing sebaceous filament extraction, becoming the #1 cleansing oil on Amazon US. While the brand lacks the decades of clinical backing that legacy brands carry, this specific product has been validated by an enormous volume of real-world user feedback.
Brand founded: 2020 · Product launched: 2022
Myth vs. Reality
Myths & Misconceptions
Myth
The grits that come out during the oil cleansing massage are blackheads being extracted from your pores.
Reality
The grits are primarily sebaceous filaments — a normal part of pore function — mixed with dissolved sebum, sunscreen residue, and dead skin cells. They are not blackheads, and they will refill naturally. Regular oil cleansing keeps them managed but does not permanently eliminate them.
Myth
Oil cleansing causes breakouts because you're putting oil on your face.
Reality
Properly formulated cleansing oils dissolve and remove oil-based impurities through the 'like dissolves like' principle, then emulsify and rinse away. The key is using it as a first cleanse followed by a water-based second cleanser. However, the specific oils matter — this product's ethylhexyl palmitate base does have comedogenic potential for some users.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
Does the Anua Cleansing Oil actually remove blackheads?
The oil dissolves sebaceous filaments — the tiny plugs in your pores that appear as small dots on the nose and chin. These are not true blackheads (which are oxidized comedones) but are closely related. With regular use and a 60-90 second massage on dry skin, you will see these dissolved plugs emerge as 'grits.' They do refill naturally, so consistent use is needed for ongoing results.
Is the Anua Cleansing Oil safe for acne-prone skin?
Results are mixed. The majority of users, including those with oily and acne-prone skin, report cleaner pores and fewer breakouts. However, the base ingredient ethylhexyl palmitate has a moderate comedogenic rating, and the formula contains fragrance. Some acne-prone users experience initial breakouts. Patch testing is recommended.
Do I need to double cleanse after using this oil?
Yes — always follow this oil cleanser with a water-based second cleanser. The cleansing oil dissolves oil-based impurities (makeup, sunscreen, sebum), but it needs a second cleanser to fully remove the emulsified residue and any remaining water-soluble debris. Skipping the second cleanse can leave behind a film that may clog pores.
How long should I massage the Anua Cleansing Oil?
Massage for 60-90 seconds on dry skin for the best grit extraction results. Avoid massaging for more than 2 minutes, as extended friction can compromise the skin barrier. Focus on areas with visible congestion — typically the nose, chin, and forehead.
Is the Anua Cleansing Oil fragrance-free?
No. Fragrance is listed as the 6th ingredient — a meaningful position indicating a noticeable concentration. The scent is herbal and botanical. If you have fragrance sensitivity, this product may not be suitable for you despite its otherwise gentle formulation.
Why did I break out after using the Anua Cleansing Oil?
There are several possible reasons: the ethylhexyl palmitate base has comedogenic potential for some skin types, the fragrance may cause a reaction, or you may be experiencing a short purging phase as trapped sebum is dislodged. If breakouts persist beyond 2-3 weeks, the product may not suit your skin. Also ensure you are always following with a second cleanser.
Community
Community Voices
Common Praise
"Effectively dissolves all types of makeup, SPF, and excess sebum"
"Visibly extracts sebaceous filaments and grits during massage"
"Lightweight, non-greasy texture that emulsifies and rinses cleanly"
"Affordable at $22 for a generous 200ml size"
"Pump dispenser is convenient and hygienic for daily use"
"Gentle enough for daily use as part of double cleansing routine"
Common Complaints
"Contains fragrance as the 6th ingredient — can irritate sensitive skin"
"Ethylhexyl palmitate as the base has moderate comedogenic potential"
"Some users experience breakouts or worsened acne after initial use"
"Herbal fragrance scent may be too strong for scent-sensitive users"
"Not effective enough alone for very heavy or waterproof makeup"
"Reports of barrier damage with overuse or extended massage times"
Notable Endorsements
#1 cleansing oil on Amazon USOlive Young bestseller in KoreaTikTok viral product with hundreds of millions of views
Appears In
best cleanser for oily skin best cleansing oil best cleanser for blackheads best k beauty cleanser
Related Conditions
blackheads large pores oiliness dullness
Related Ingredients
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