Cleansing Balm: Radiance

Korean court women during the Joseon dynasty are said to have used the milky water left over from washing rice as a cleanser and brightener. Whether the historical accuracy holds up to scholarly scrutiny is debatable, but the ingredient science behind rice's skincare benefits is not. Beauty of Joseon's Radiance Cleansing Balm takes this traditional ingredient and builds a modern double-cleanse product around it — then, after its initial launch, went back and made it better by stripping out the ingredients that didn't belong.

The reformulated version is a meaningful improvement over the original. Gone are the beeswax (replaced with synthetic wax for a vegan formula), the artificial fragrance, and the essential oils that had no business being in a product marketed for sensitive skin. What remains is a streamlined formula centered on three forms of rice: bran oil for emollient cleansing, seed water for hydration, and extract for brightening. It's the kind of reformulation that suggests a brand actually listening to its community rather than just repackaging.

The texture is what first sold this product to the K-beauty faithful. It's a firm sherbet that yields immediately under warm fingertips, melting into a silky oil that has just the right amount of slip. You can feel it working — not in an aggressive, tingling way, but in the satisfying sensation of waterproof mascara and stubborn sunscreen dissolving under gentle circular motions. Add water, and the oil transforms into a milky emulsion that rinses clean without the greasy aftermath that plagues cheaper cleansing balms.

Sea buckthorn oil is the ingredient that gives this balm its personality. Most cleansing balms use neutral oils — sunflower, mineral, jojoba — that dissolve makeup without contributing much else. Sea buckthorn oil brings omega-7 fatty acids (palmitoleic acid), which actively support skin barrier function, along with carotenoids that give the balm its distinctive warm golden tint. The antioxidant profile means the cleansing step isn't just removing things from your skin — it's mildly protective while it does so.

The lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract is an interesting inclusion for a rinse-off product. Fermented soybean contains isoflavones and amino acids in smaller, more bioavailable forms than unfermented soy. Whether these compounds have enough skin contact time during a cleansing step to deliver meaningful benefits is debatable — the balm is on your face for perhaps ninety seconds to two minutes. But the inclusion signals formulation thoughtfulness, and the soybean ferment contributes to the formula's overall skin-conditioning feel.

Oat meal extract provides the soothing backbone. For anyone whose skin tends to react to the cleansing step — getting red, tight, or irritated — the anti-inflammatory beta-glucans in oat extract help buffer that response. This is particularly noticeable compared to cleansing balms that use only emollients without soothing agents; the post-cleanse skin feel is genuinely softer and calmer.

The honest limitations are few but worth noting. The jar packaging, while attractive, requires dipping your fingers or a spatula into the product with each use — less hygienic than a tube or pump, though the included spatula mitigates this. The formula can soften noticeably in warm environments, which affects the satisfying sherbet texture that is part of the product's appeal. And if you skip the second cleanser step, a slight film can remain that may not agree with acne-prone skin over time.

PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and PEG-10 isostearate serve as the emulsifying agents that allow the balm to rinse clean with water. PEGs are a point of contention in the clean beauty community, though cosmetic chemists generally consider them safe at these concentrations. If you strictly avoid PEGs, this product won't work for you — but cosmetically, they're the reason the balm emulsifies so cleanly instead of leaving an oily residue.

At $19 for 100ml, this sits in the sweet spot of K-beauty cleansing balms. It's significantly cheaper than the Banila Co Clean It Zero ($25-28 for 100ml) and the Heimish All Clean Balm ($18-22 for 120ml) while offering a more interesting ingredient profile. The price recently dropped from its original MSRP on several retailers, making the per-ounce cost even more competitive.

This is the kind of product that converts people to double cleansing. The experience is pleasant enough that the extra step feels like a ritual rather than a burden, and the results — skin that's genuinely clean but still hydrated — demonstrate why two gentler cleansing steps outperform one aggressive one.

Formula

The Science

The cleansing efficacy of oil-based balms relies on the principle that 'like dissolves like' — lipophilic ingredients in the balm dissolve the lipophilic substances on skin (sebum, oil-based sunscreen, makeup pigments). The cetyl ethylhexanoate and caprylic/capric triglyceride that form the base of this formula are esters chosen for their excellent solvent properties and low comedogenic potential.

Rice bran oil (Oryza sativa) has been studied for its unique composition of gamma-oryzanol, tocotrienols, and phytosterols. A 2014 study published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences demonstrated that gamma-oryzanol exhibits significant antioxidant activity and UV-protective properties. While these benefits are limited in a rinse-off product, the brief contact time during cleansing may provide some conditioning effect, particularly for the skin's lipid barrier.

Sea buckthorn oil (Hippophae rhamnoides) is notably rich in palmitoleic acid (omega-7), which constitutes 30-40% of its fatty acid profile. A 2017 review in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology noted that sea buckthorn oil promotes wound healing and reduces inflammation through its combined effects of omega fatty acids, carotenoids, and tocopherols. In the context of a cleansing balm, these properties help ensure the cleansing step doesn't compromise the skin barrier.

The Lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract undergoes bioconversion that produces genistein and daidzein — isoflavones that have demonstrated antioxidant and mild tyrosinase-inhibiting (brightening) activity in dermatological research. Whether the contact time in a rinse-off product is sufficient for meaningful penetration of these actives remains debated among cosmetic chemists, but the conditioning feel during use is noticeable.

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists who recommend double cleansing typically advise starting with an oil-based first cleanser like this to remove oil-soluble impurities before following with a water-based cleanser. Board-certified dermatologists note that this approach is gentler than using a single strong cleanser, as it avoids the surfactant overload that can strip the skin barrier. The fragrance-free, essential oil-free reformulation of this product makes it more suitable for dermatologist-recommended sensitive skin routines. Dermatologists generally consider PEG emulsifiers safe in rinse-off products at these concentrations, though patients with severely compromised skin barriers are sometimes advised to avoid them as a precaution.

Guidance

Beauty of Joseon's cleansing balm draws directly from the Korean tradition of using rice water for cleansing — a practice dating back to the Joseon dynasty, where court women would collect the starchy water from rice preparation and use it as both a cleanser and a skin brightener. The brand reformulated this product from its original version, removing beeswax, artificial fragrance, and essential oils to create a cleaner formula that better serves sensitive skin without losing the rice-centric identity.

About Beauty of Joseon Established Brand (5–20 years)

Beauty of Joseon was founded in 2016 in South Korea by Sumin Lee, drawing inspiration from Joseon dynasty beauty traditions and hanbang (Korean herbal medicine) ingredients. The brand has rapidly built a loyal global following through K-beauty communities, though its specific product formulations have limited independent clinical validation beyond ingredient-level research.

Brand founded: 2016 · Product launched: 2021

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

Cleansing balms clog pores because they're oil-based

Reality

Oil-based cleansers actually dissolve sebum and oil-based impurities (like sunscreen and makeup) more effectively than water-based cleansers. When properly emulsified and rinsed — or followed by a second cleanser — cleansing balms leave behind minimal residue. The key is complete removal: massage thoroughly, add water to emulsify, rinse, then follow with a water-based cleanser.

Myth

Rice water for skincare is just a K-beauty marketing trend

Reality

Rice water has been used in East Asian beauty for centuries, and there's genuine science behind it. Rice bran contains gamma-oryzanol, a potent antioxidant, as well as ferulic acid and phytic acid — both of which have demonstrated brightening effects in dermatological studies. The tradition isn't just folklore; the ingredients deliver measurable benefits.

FAQ

Common Praise

"Melts away waterproof makeup and sunscreen effortlessly"

"Leaves skin soft and hydrated rather than stripped or tight"

"No fragrance — gentle enough for the most reactive skin"

"Sherbet-like texture is satisfying and luxurious to use"

"Excellent value compared to premium cleansing balms"

Common Complaints

"Can leave a slight film if not followed by a second cleanser"

"Some users experience mild breakouts during adjustment period"

"PEG emulsifiers may concern those following strict clean beauty standards"

"Jar packaging requires dipping fingers in, which is less hygienic than tubes"

"Texture can become soft or melty in warm environments"

Appears In

best cleansing balm for sensitive skin best k beauty cleansing balm best affordable cleansing balm best makeup remover balm

Related Conditions

dullness dryness sensitivity

Related Ingredients

sea buckthorn colloidal oatmeal probiotics prebiotics