Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide

Propolis doesn't have the glamorous reputation of retinol or the TikTok virality of niacinamide. It's a resinous substance that bees produce to seal and protect their hives — essentially bee glue. But in Korean herbal medicine, propolis has been valued for centuries for its healing and protective properties. Beauty of Joseon's Glow Serum takes this unglamorous ingredient and puts it front and center at 60% — a concentration that most brands wouldn't dare attempt because propolis is expensive and, frankly, not sexy enough for marketing.

The 60% propolis concentration is what makes this serum worth discussing. Most propolis skincare products use 5-20% for label appeal. At 60%, propolis isn't a supporting player — it's the entire foundation. The extract provides a complex of over 300 bioactive compounds, including flavonoids (chrysin, pinocembrin), phenolic acids, and CAPE (caffeic acid phenethyl ester), each contributing to the anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and wound-healing profile that makes propolis genuinely interesting as a skincare active.

In practice, the high propolis content manifests as a serum that calms irritated skin noticeably within the first few applications. Active blemishes seem to resolve faster. Redness diminishes. The skin develops a subtle, healthy luminosity — not the sparkly, reflective glow of products loaded with mica, but a deeper, from-within radiance that suggests well-nourished skin. This is the 'glow' the product name promises, and it delivers.

The niacinamide at 2% is a deliberate choice that deserves defense. In a market where 10% niacinamide is common, 2% might look timid. But research demonstrates efficacy at concentrations as low as 2%, and in the context of a 60% propolis base, a lower niacinamide percentage reduces the risk of irritation from ingredient interactions. The niacinamide's role here is targeted — pore refinement, mild oil regulation, and a subtle brightening effect — rather than the aggressive multi-tasking that high-dose niacinamide attempts.

Betaine salicylate at 0.5% adds a layer of gentle chemical exfoliation that most glow serums omit. Betaine salicylate is a BHA derivative with similar pore-clearing properties to salicylic acid but with reduced irritation potential. It dissolves the oil and dead skin cells inside pores, complementing the niacinamide's oil regulation and the propolis's antibacterial action. The three-way combination — propolis (antibacterial/healing), niacinamide (oil control/pore refinement), and BHA (exfoliation/pore clearing) — creates a surprisingly comprehensive anti-blemish strategy in what's marketed simply as a 'glow serum.'

The botanical supporting cast reinforces the anti-inflammatory theme. Centella asiatica extract provides calming triterpenes. Tea tree extract adds documented antibacterial activity. Turmeric root extract contributes curcumin-based anti-inflammatory support. These aren't token inclusions — they're thoughtfully chosen botanicals that complement the propolis's mechanism of action.

Texture-wise, the serum is slightly viscous with a warm, honey-like tint. There's a brief tackiness on application — inherent to high-propolis formulas — that resolves within thirty seconds to a minute. The trick is applying to slightly damp skin and using no more than two to three drops; over-application amplifies the sticky phase. Once absorbed, the finish is luminous without being greasy — it looks like healthy skin, not like you're wearing a serum.

The scent is worth mentioning: a faint, natural honey-like aroma from the propolis itself. No fragrance is added. If you dislike the smell of honey, you'll notice it; most people find it either pleasant or neutral.

At $17 for 30ml (with a 60ml option at $23.80 for better per-unit value), this serum's pricing borders on absurd for what it delivers. Comparable propolis serums — COSRX Propolis Synergy Toner at $23/150ml uses a lower propolis concentration, and premium options like the iUNIK Propolis Vitamin Synergy Serum at $19/50ml use 70% propolis extract but at higher per-ml cost. The Beauty of Joseon formulation matches or exceeds these competitors in both concentration and supporting ingredients while remaining accessible.

The limitation worth noting: propolis is a bee product, and for a small percentage of users, it can trigger allergic or sensitivity reactions. If you have known allergies to bee products, patch test carefully. The tamanu oil (Calophyllum inophyllum) is also a known comedogenic ingredient, which is a curious inclusion in a formula otherwise well-suited for acne-prone skin.

For the vast majority of users — particularly those with oily, combination, or acne-prone skin seeking calmer, clearer, more luminous skin — this serum delivers a remarkable amount of value. It's the product that made 'propolis' a word in the average K-beauty consumer's vocabulary, and it earned that influence honestly.

Formula

The Science

Propolis's dermatological benefits are attributed to its complex phytochemical profile, which varies by geographic source but consistently includes flavonoids, phenolic acids, and CAPE (caffeic acid phenethyl ester). A 2013 study published in Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine demonstrated that propolis extract exhibits significant antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), the primary bacterium involved in inflammatory acne. The study found that propolis inhibited bacterial growth at concentrations that were non-cytotoxic to skin cells — an important distinction from harsher antibacterial agents.

The anti-inflammatory mechanism of propolis involves inhibition of the NF-κB pathway, a key signaling cascade in inflammatory responses. A 2018 review in the Journal of Functional Foods summarized evidence that CAPE and chrysin (a propolis flavonoid) both suppress pro-inflammatory cytokines including TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6 — the same inflammatory mediators involved in acne, rosacea, and general skin irritation.

Niacinamide at 2% sits within the effective range identified by multiple clinical studies. A landmark 2003 study by Hakozaki and colleagues, published in the British Journal of Dermatology, demonstrated that topical niacinamide at concentrations as low as 2% reduced hyperpigmentation and improved skin barrier function. A 2006 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science confirmed niacinamide's sebum-regulating effects, showing reduced sebum excretion rates after 4 weeks of topical application.

Betaine salicylate is a lipophilic hydroxy acid derivative that shares BHA exfoliation properties with salicylic acid but with improved tolerability. It penetrates the oil-filled pore lining to dissolve keratin plugs and sebum — the same mechanism as salicylic acid — but the betaine modification reduces the irritation potential, making the 0.5% concentration in this formula suitable for daily use alongside the propolis and niacinamide.

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists frequently recommend propolis-based products for patients with mild-to-moderate inflammatory acne who prefer non-prescription options. Board-certified dermatologists note that propolis's combination of antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties makes it a particularly interesting active for acne management — it addresses both the bacterial trigger and the inflammatory response simultaneously. The 2% niacinamide and 0.5% betaine salicylate complement this approach by targeting oil production and pore congestion, respectively. Dermatologists would advise patients with known bee product allergies to avoid this serum, and would note that while effective for mild acne and general skin clarity, it should not replace prescription treatments for moderate-to-severe cystic acne.

Guidance

The Glow Serum was one of Beauty of Joseon's early hits that helped establish the brand beyond its Dynasty Cream. Propolis — the resinous substance bees produce to seal and protect their hives — has been used in traditional Korean medicine for centuries, and its inclusion at 60% reflects the brand's commitment to using traditional ingredients at functional concentrations rather than token levels. The serum's success was driven largely by K-beauty YouTube and Reddit communities who validated its calming and glow-boosting claims.

About Beauty of Joseon Established Brand (5–20 years)

Beauty of Joseon was founded in 2016 in South Korea by Sumin Lee, drawing inspiration from Joseon dynasty beauty traditions and hanbang ingredients. The Glow Serum became one of the brand's flagship products and helped establish its reputation in the serum category across global K-beauty markets.

Brand founded: 2016 · Product launched: 2020

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

Propolis is just fancy honey and doesn't have real skincare benefits

Reality

Propolis has a completely different composition from honey. It contains over 300 bioactive compounds including flavonoids, phenolic acids, and CAPE (caffeic acid phenethyl ester) — compounds with documented anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and wound-healing properties. Multiple studies have demonstrated propolis's effectiveness in promoting skin healing and reducing acne-related inflammation.

Myth

Higher niacinamide percentages are always better

Reality

Research shows that niacinamide is effective at concentrations as low as 2%, which is what this serum uses. Higher concentrations (5-10%) can cause flushing, irritation, and redness in sensitive individuals. The 2% in this formula provides pore-refining and brightening benefits with virtually zero irritation risk — a deliberate choice for a serum designed to be gentle enough for daily use alongside its 60% propolis base.

FAQ

Common Praise

"Visibly calms redness and active breakouts within days of use"

"Gives skin a natural luminous glow without greasiness"

"Lightweight texture absorbs quickly and layers perfectly under makeup"

"Affordable price point for a 60% propolis serum"

"Helps reduce the appearance of pores with consistent use"

Common Complaints

"Slightly sticky texture that takes a minute to fully absorb"

"Can cause allergic reactions in those with bee product sensitivities"

"2% niacinamide is lower than many competing niacinamide serums"

"Contains tamanu oil which some acne-prone users find comedogenic"

"Small 30ml size doesn't last long — the 60ml is better value"

Notable Endorsements

Available at Sephora

Appears In

best propolis serum best k beauty serum for acne best glow serum for oily skin best pore refining serum best serum for combination skin

Related Conditions

acne large pores dullness oiliness texture

Related Ingredients

niacinamide salicylic acid centella asiatica tea tree hyaluronic acid