Baking Soda Acne Scrub

In 2016, baking soda was having a moment. Pinterest boards overflowed with DIY face mask recipes starring the pantry staple, and the natural beauty community had convinced a substantial portion of the internet that sodium bicarbonate was a skin-transforming miracle ingredient. Biore, ever attuned to consumer trends, launched a baking soda line that included this acne scrub — and for a few years, it occupied a respectable spot on drugstore shelves alongside the brand's iconic pore strips.

The product has since been discontinued, and the timing tells a story. The baking soda trend faded as dermatological consensus crystallized around a simple fact: pure baking soda has a pH of approximately 9, which can severely disrupt the skin's natural acid mantle of about 5.5. Chronic use of highly alkaline products compromises the barrier, increases transepidermal water loss, and can actually worsen the acne it was supposed to treat. Biore was savvy enough to formulate this scrub with a relatively low concentration of baking soda — it is listed 19th of 23 ingredients — but the marketing leaned heavily on the ingredient's name, and the formula carried other baggage that made its discontinuation feel overdue.

To be fair to this product: the 2% salicylic acid is the real engine here, and it is an excellent one. Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid with decades of clinical evidence behind it, FDA-approved as an over-the-counter acne active, and uniquely oil-soluble — meaning it can penetrate through the sebum filling a clogged pore to exfoliate from the inside out. At 2%, this is the maximum concentration allowed in OTC products, and in a wash-off format, it provides a meaningful dose of chemical exfoliation without the prolonged skin contact that can cause excessive dryness. If salicylic acid were the only notable ingredient in this scrub, the review would read very differently.

But the ingredient list tells a less flattering story once you move past the salicylic acid. Fragrance — listed broadly, with no specificity about what that fragrance comprises — introduces a known sensitizer to a product designed for acne-prone skin that is already by definition somewhat inflamed. Menthol adds a cooling tingle that many consumers interpret as efficacy but that dermatologists recognize as a counterirritant with no acne-treating mechanism. Yellow 5 Lake and Red 30 are artificial colorants that exist purely for aesthetic purposes — they make the product look more interesting in the tube but contribute nothing to its function and are recognized allergens for some individuals. Benzophenone-4, a UV absorber likely included to stabilize the formula's color, is a known photoallergen.

The base formula, at least, shows some thoughtfulness. Sodium cocoyl isethionate is a genuinely gentle surfactant choice — milder than the sulfates that dominated drugstore cleansers in 2016. Glycerin provides humectant support that partially offsets the drying nature of the BHA. The physical scrub particles are fine enough to dissolve during use rather than causing micro-tears, which places this above the harsher walnut shell and apricot kernel scrubs that were still common at the time.

On the skin, this scrub performed a competent job for its intended audience. Oily and combination skin types who were not sensitive to fragrance or menthol generally found it effective: skin felt smoother immediately after use, and consistent application two to three times weekly produced visible improvement in blackheads and minor breakouts within two to three weeks. The menthol provides a brief cooling sensation that, for those who tolerate it, feels refreshing during a summer evening cleanse. The citrusy scent was widely considered pleasant if not exactly sophisticated.

The complaints were equally predictable. Sensitive skin users reported stinging, dryness, and redness — unsurprising given the cocktail of fragrance, menthol, BHA, and baking soda. Those with active, inflamed breakouts found that the scrub stung on application, and some experienced worsened irritation rather than improvement. The physical exfoliation, while gentler than many scrubs, was still unnecessary alongside the chemical exfoliation provided by salicylic acid — and using both simultaneously increased the barrier damage risk without proportional benefit.

At roughly seven to eight dollars for 4.5 ounces, the value was genuinely good for a 2% salicylic acid cleanser, and for many users with resilient oily skin, it did exactly what they needed. But the broader market has evolved significantly since 2016. Drugstore acne cleansers with 2% salicylic acid are now widely available without the fragrance, menthol, artificial colorants, and baking soda that burdened this formula. The discontinuation of both the original and its Blue Agave reformulation suggests that Biore recognized this shift.

As a snapshot of mid-2010s skincare, this product is instructive. It shows a major brand responding to a consumer trend (baking soda) by wrapping a legitimate active ingredient (salicylic acid) in a formula that prioritized sensory experience and trend alignment over minimalist efficacy. The skincare landscape has moved decisively toward the latter, and this discontinued scrub is a reminder of where the industry was and how far it has come.

Formula

The Science

The primary active in this formula, 2% salicylic acid, has a robust evidence base for acne treatment. As a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which allows it to penetrate through the lipid-rich environment inside clogged pores. A systematic review published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2015) confirmed that salicylic acid at concentrations of 0.5-2% significantly reduces both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions, with particular efficacy against comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).

The baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) in this formula is more problematic from an evidence perspective. A study published in the British Journal of Dermatology demonstrated that the skin's acid mantle — maintained at approximately pH 5.5 — serves a critical role in barrier function, antimicrobial defense, and enzyme activity. Products that significantly raise cutaneous pH can impair barrier recovery and increase susceptibility to pathogenic bacteria. While the low concentration of baking soda in this formula (19th of 23 ingredients) likely does not dramatically shift the overall product pH, the ingredient has no published evidence supporting its efficacy as a topical acne treatment.

Menthol, included as a sensory ingredient, activates TRPM8 cold receptors in the skin, producing a cooling sensation that has no correlation with acne treatment efficacy. Research published in Contact Dermatitis has identified menthol as a potential sensitizer, particularly for individuals with compromised barriers — exactly the population most likely to be using an acne scrub.

References

1. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review — Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2015)

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists generally support the use of 2% salicylic acid for mild to moderate acne, particularly in wash-off formats that limit prolonged skin contact. However, board-certified dermatologists consistently advise against products that combine physical and chemical exfoliation, as the dual mechanism increases the risk of barrier damage without evidence of improved outcomes. The inclusion of fragrance, menthol, and artificial colorants in a product designed for already-compromised acne-prone skin is viewed unfavorably by most dermatologists. Baking soda specifically has drawn criticism from the dermatological community for its alkaline pH, though its low concentration in this formula mitigates the concern. Dermatologists typically recommend fragrance-free, single-mechanism BHA cleansers as a safer alternative for acne-prone skin.

Guidance

Biore launched its baking soda line in 2016, riding the broader 'baking soda for skin' trend that was gaining traction in natural beauty communities. The scrub was later reformulated as the 'Blue Agave + Baking Soda' version, and both have since been discontinued as the brand shifted its focus to other product lines. The baking soda trend itself has largely fallen out of favor as dermatological consensus solidified around the importance of maintaining the skin's natural acid mantle.

About Biore Legacy Brand (20+ years)

Biore was launched in 1980 by Kao Corporation (Japan, founded 1887) and entered the North American market in 1997. The brand is best known for its pore strips and cleansing products. Note: This product has been discontinued and is no longer part of Biore's current lineup.

Brand founded: 1980 · Product launched: 2016

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

Baking soda is a great natural exfoliant for acne-prone skin.

Reality

Pure baking soda has a pH of about 9, which can severely disrupt the skin's acid mantle (pH ~5.5). In this formula, the baking soda is present at a low concentration alongside pH-adjusting ingredients, so the disruption is minimal — but the real acne-fighting work is being done by the 2% salicylic acid, not the baking soda.

Myth

The tingling from menthol means the product is working.

Reality

Menthol triggers cold-sensitive receptors in the skin, creating a cooling sensation that has nothing to do with acne treatment efficacy. It does not make the salicylic acid work better. For some users, the menthol actually causes irritation that can worsen inflammatory acne.

FAQ

Common Praise

"Leaves skin feeling smooth after use"

"Helps clear minor breakouts over 2-3 weeks"

"Pleasant light citrusy scent"

"Fine exfoliating particles are not overly harsh"

"Very affordable for an acne scrub"

Common Complaints

"Can be drying with frequent use"

"Stings on active breakouts and open blemishes"

"Menthol tingling too intense for sensitive skin"

"Contains fragrance and artificial colorants"

"Now discontinued and hard to find"

"Some users saw no improvement in acne"

Appears In

best drugstore acne scrub best scrub for oily skin best salicylic acid cleanser drugstore

Related Conditions

acne oiliness blackheads large pores texture

Related Ingredients

salicylic acid glycerin