One Step Moisture Up Pad

When COSRX quietly reformulated its Moisture Up Pad in 2022, it sparked the kind of online debate that only K-beauty devotees can sustain for months. The original, built on approximately 70% propolis extract, had earned a devoted following among dry-skinned fans who swore by its honey-adjacent glow. The new version replaced that entire propolis foundation with Alaskan glacier water and a five-form hyaluronic acid complex. It was, effectively, a different product wearing the same blue tub.

The reformulation gamble appears to have paid off, at least on the formulation sheet. Five forms of hyaluronic acid — sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, and straight hyaluronic acid — create a layered hydration approach that targets different depths of the skin simultaneously. The crosspolymer forms a moisture-trapping film on the surface while the hydrolyzed versions, with their smaller molecular weights, penetrate further. It is the kind of multi-weight HA system that used to be reserved for standalone serums, compressed here into a pre-soaked cotton pad.

What genuinely sets this apart in the toner pad category is the inclusion of squalane. Most pads in this space are water-based through and through — exfoliation-forward products designed for oily skin that treat emollients like uninvited guests. COSRX went the other direction, recognizing that a pad targeting dry and dehydrated skin needs some lipid support. The squalane provides a light occlusive element that helps seal in the hyaluronic acid rather than letting it evaporate, which is the dirty secret of many HA-heavy products that skip the sealing step.

The dual exfoliant system — betaine salicylate (a gentler BHA derivative) and gluconolactone (a PHA) — operates at low enough concentrations that calling this an exfoliating product feels generous. The exfoliation here is more of a polite suggestion than a firm directive. The betaine salicylate offers mild pore-clearing action while the gluconolactone brings its own humectant properties to the party, making it arguably more of a hydrator that happens to exfoliate than the reverse. Combined with the textured side of the pad, you get a triple-action system — mechanical, BHA, and PHA — where each individual element is so gentle that the cumulative effect is still solidly in the mild category.

The experience of using these pads is satisfying in the way that good K-beauty products often are. Each pad is generously saturated — almost dripping — with a medium-weight essence that feels like a cross between a toner and a light serum. The embossed side provides a pleasant textured sweep across the skin without any scratching or pulling. Flip to the smooth side, pat the remaining essence in, and the skin immediately looks plumper and feels hydrated. The finish is dewy without being sticky, and it layers well under subsequent products.

Here is where the review takes a turn toward honest frustration. In a product so thoughtfully formulated around gentle hydration, the inclusion of lemon peel oil and bergamot oil is baffling. Bergamot oil contains furanocoumarins, which are documented phototoxic agents — they can cause skin reactions when exposed to UV light. Lemon peel oil brings its own photosensitivity concerns. Limonene and linalool, both present as fragrance components, are known to oxidize with air exposure and become allergenic over time. These are not trace amounts buried at the end of a long INCI list — they are prominent enough to generate a noticeable (if faint) citrus scent.

For a product positioned as a hydrating, gentle alternative to the more aggressive Original Clear Pad, these fragrance ingredients undercut the message. They narrow the suitability window considerably, pushing anyone with rosacea, eczema, fragrance sensitivity, or generally reactive skin toward caution or outright avoidance. It is the kind of decision that feels rooted in the sensory experience — someone decided the pad needed to smell nice — at the expense of the skin it is meant to soothe.

The packaging is functional if not glamorous: a sturdy blue plastic tub with a screw-top lid that keeps the pads well-saturated throughout the product's life. Some users report difficulty separating individual pads from the stack, which is a minor annoyance that most pad products share. At 70 pads for approximately $22, the value proposition is reasonable — roughly 31 cents per use for a combined toner and light exfoliant that lasts over two months with daily use.

The 2022 reformulation represents a genuine upgrade in formulation sophistication, even if it means saying goodbye to the propolis extract that gave the original its identity. The multi-weight hyaluronic acid system, the thoughtful inclusion of squalane, and the dual gentle exfoliants create a product that is genuinely more than a toner pad — it is a hydrating treatment compressed into a convenient format. If COSRX would simply drop the citrus oils in a future iteration, this would be an easy recommendation for nearly any skin type seeking hydration in a hurry.

Formula

The Science

The multi-molecular-weight approach to hyaluronic acid in this formula reflects well-established dermatological research on HA penetration. A 2012 study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology found that hyaluronic acid fragments of different molecular weights target different skin layers: high-molecular-weight HA (>1000 kDa) forms a moisture-retaining film on the skin surface, while low-molecular-weight and hydrolyzed forms (<50 kDa) can penetrate into the epidermis to hydrate from within. The inclusion of sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer is particularly notable — this modified form creates a breathable film that provides sustained moisture release rather than the immediate-then-fading hydration of standard HA.

Betaine salicylate, the BHA derivative used here, is a compound formed by combining salicylic acid with betaine (trimethylglycine). It delivers approximately half the exfoliating potency of pure salicylic acid at equivalent concentrations, making it suitable for daily use without the drying effects associated with traditional BHA products. Gluconolactone, the PHA component, has been studied for its ability to provide exfoliation comparable to glycolic acid while simultaneously acting as a humectant and antioxidant. A study published in Dermatologic Surgery (2004) by Edison et al. demonstrated that PHAs provide comparable anti-aging benefits to AHAs with significantly less irritation, making them suitable for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin — though the citrus oils in this particular formulation somewhat negate that sensitivity advantage.

Squalane's inclusion addresses a common limitation of HA-centric products: without an occlusive or emollient layer, hyaluronic acid can actually draw moisture out of the skin in low-humidity environments. The squalane creates a light lipid layer that helps seal in the multi-weight HA complex, improving the net hydration delivery of the formula.

References

1. Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans — Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2012)
2. Polyhydroxy Acids: New Generation of Acids for Skin Care — Dermatologic Surgery (2004)

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists generally view multi-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid formulations favorably for addressing dehydration across skin types. The combination of BHA and PHA at low concentrations is considered appropriate for daily use by most board-certified dermatologists, who note that the gentle exfoliation can improve product absorption and promote healthy cell turnover without the barrier disruption of stronger acids. However, dermatologists specializing in sensitive skin and rosacea would flag the bergamot and lemon peel oils as unnecessary irritation risks — bergamot oil in particular is well-documented in dermatological literature as a phototoxic agent. For patients with intact barriers and no fragrance sensitivity, this product fits well as a hydrating toner step that adds mild exfoliation benefits.

Guidance

COSRX pioneered the Korean toner pad category with its One Step Pimple Clear Pad in 2015, which became a cult K-beauty staple for acne-prone skin. The Moisture Up Pad was created around 2016 for the dry and dehydrated skin types who loved the pad format but found the BHA-heavy original too stripping. A 2022 reformulation replaced the original propolis base with Alaskan glacier water and a multi-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid complex.

About COSRX Established Brand (5–20 years)

COSRX launched in 2013 and quickly became one of K-beauty's most recognized skincare brands globally. Known for minimal-ingredient, functional formulations, COSRX has built a strong following through transparent labeling and effective products, though independent clinical studies on its specific formulations remain limited.

Brand founded: 2013 · Product launched: 2016

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

Glacier water in skincare provides superior hydration compared to purified water.

Reality

While glacier water contains trace minerals, the hydration benefits in this pad come overwhelmingly from the multi-weight hyaluronic acid complex, panthenol, and squalane — the glacier water serves as a clean solvent base but isn't the star performer the marketing suggests.

Myth

Toner pads are too harsh for daily use because of the physical exfoliation.

Reality

This pad's embossed side provides extremely gentle mechanical exfoliation — far less abrasive than a washcloth. Combined with the low-concentration betaine salicylate and gluconolactone, most skin types can use this daily without over-exfoliation.

FAQ

Common Praise

"Excellent hydration delivery in a convenient pad format"

"Generously saturated pads that don't dry out in the container"

"Dual-sided design is practical for exfoliation and toning"

"Skin feels plump and dewy after use"

"Good value for 70 pads"

Common Complaints

"Pads can be difficult to separate from the container"

"Essence may feel too heavy or sticky in humid weather"

"BHA exfoliation is very mild — not enough for visible exfoliation"

"Contains citrus essential oils that may irritate sensitive skin"

Notable Endorsements

Featured across major K-beauty editorial sitesPart of COSRX's best-selling One Step pad line

Appears In

best toner for dehydration best toner for dryness best toner pad for dry skin best k beauty toner pad best hydrating toner pad

Related Conditions

dryness dehydration dullness texture

Related Ingredients

hyaluronic acid salicylic acid gluconolactone panthenol squalane