Total Cleans'r Remove-It-All Cleanser

July 2020. The beauty internet is in a frenzy. Rihanna — who fundamentally changed the makeup industry with Fenty Beauty's 40-shade foundation range — is coming for skincare. Three products. Three steps. And the first step is a cleanser with an apostrophe in its name and a promise to remove it all.

Five years later, Total Cleans'r has become one of those products that people either slot quietly into their routine and repurchase without fanfare, or try once and move on to something with a cleaner ingredient list. Both responses are valid, because the Total Cleans'r is a product of genuine contrasts: a thoughtful surfactant base undermined by unnecessary cosmetic additions.

The good news first. The cleansing system is well-designed. Sodium cocoyl glycinate — an amino acid surfactant derived from coconut and glycine — leads the formula. It's one of the gentler surfactant options available, creating a rich lather without the aggressive lipid-stripping of sodium lauryl sulfate. Sodium cocoamphoacetate and cocamidopropyl betaine support it as co-surfactants, building the formula's signature creamy foam. On application, the lather feels genuinely luxurious — soft, dense, and silky in a way that makes the washing step feel like an indulgence rather than a chore.

Makeup removal performance is solid for everyday use. Foundation, powder, regular sunscreen, and non-waterproof eye makeup dissolve with about a minute of gentle massaging. The glycerin content prevents the post-wash tightness that plagues harsher cleansers, and skin feels clean but still hydrated after rinsing. For the person who wears medium-coverage makeup and a standard SPF and wants one product to handle their evening cleanse, Total Cleans'r delivers on its promise.

Where it falters is with heavy-duty cosmetics. Waterproof mascara does not give up easily. Longwear liquid liner requires repeated rubbing that defeats the purpose of a gentle cleanser. And truly water-resistant sunscreens — the kind dermatologists recommend — leave a noticeable film. This isn't unusual for a gel-to-lather cleanser, but the 'Remove-It-All' name sets expectations the formula can't quite meet.

The Barbados cherry extract makes its appearance here, as it does across the entire Fenty Skin line — a signature ingredient tied to Rihanna's Barbadian heritage. In a rinse-off product with 30-60 seconds of skin contact, the vitamin C contribution from acerola extract is minimal. It's brand storytelling more than functional formulation, though it does no harm. Green tea, fig, ginkgo, and quince extracts round out the botanical blend with antioxidant and conditioning properties that add incremental benefit during the brief washing window.

Now for the ingredient list conversation that Fenty's marketing team probably wishes people would stop having. Total Cleans'r contains added fragrance, benzyl salicylate (a fragrance allergen), cocamidopropyl betaine (which was named the American Contact Dermatitis Society's Allergen of the Year in 2004), and five cosmetic dyes — Blue 1, Red 40, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, and Titanium Dioxide. The dyes create the product's peach-coral color in the tube. They wash off. They serve zero skincare function.

For a brand that launched with messaging about being 'skin-first' and inclusive, the decision to include fragrance and five dyes in a basic cleanser feels like a brand-identity choice that overrode formulation restraint. Most users tolerate these ingredients without issue — the concentrations are low, and it's a rinse-off product. But some people will develop sensitivities over time, especially to cocamidopropyl betaine and fragrance compounds with repeated daily exposure. And for anyone who specifically seeks clean, minimal formulations, the ingredient tail end is a dealbreaker.

The value proposition is honest but not compelling. At $26 for 145 mL, you're paying more per ounce than most amino acid cleansers from established pharmacy brands, K-beauty brands, or even other indie brands. What you get for the premium is the Fenty texture (which is genuinely pleasant), the brand experience, LVMH-quality packaging (the tube is sturdy and well-made), and refill options for sustainability. What you don't get is a formulation advantage — the amino acid surfactant base is excellent, but it's not exclusive to Fenty, and competitors offer it without the fragrance and dye baggage.

Total Cleans'r is a cleanser that does its job well and looks good doing it. For the Fenty-loyal consumer who values the sensorial experience and doesn't have fragrance sensitivities, it's a perfectly serviceable daily wash with a satisfying lather and effective everyday makeup removal. For the ingredient-conscious consumer, the five dyes and added fragrance in what should be a straightforward cleanser feel like unforced errors in an otherwise decent formula.

Five years into Fenty Skin's existence, Total Cleans'r's role is clear: it's the gateway product, the first step of the Fenty routine, the product that introduces you to the brand's aesthetic. As an ambassador for Fenty's skincare philosophy, it's charming. As a pure formulation exercise, it leaves room for improvement.

Formula

The Science

Total Cleans'r's cleansing mechanism relies primarily on sodium cocoyl glycinate, an amino acid surfactant synthesized from coconut-derived fatty acids and the amino acid glycine. Amino acid surfactants form micelles that dissolve sebum and impurities while preserving more of the skin's intercellular lipids compared to anionic sulfate surfactants. Studies comparing amino acid-based cleansers to sodium lauryl sulfate-based formulations consistently show lower transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases and less disruption to the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) after washing.

Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), the third surfactant, provides foam boosting and viscosity building. CAPB was named the American Contact Dermatitis Society's Allergen of the Year in 2004, with patch-testing data showing sensitization rates of 3-7.2% among dermatitis patients. While the sensitizing potential is often attributed to manufacturing impurities (dimethylaminopropylamine and amidoamine) rather than the surfactant itself, its inclusion is worth noting for consumers with a history of contact dermatitis.

The botanical extracts — Barbados cherry (Malpighia punicifolia), green tea (Camellia sinensis), and ginkgo biloba — contribute antioxidant compounds (ascorbic acid, catechins, and flavonoids respectively). In a rinse-off product with brief skin contact time, the bioavailability of these antioxidants is limited, though some residual conditioning effect may persist on the skin surface after rinsing.

Glycerin, present at what appears to be a meaningful concentration (listed seventh in the INCI), acts as a humectant that binds water to the stratum corneum during and after cleansing, counteracting the dehydrating effects of the surfactant system.

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists generally approve of amino acid-based cleansing systems for their gentler interaction with the skin barrier compared to sulfate detergents. However, board-certified dermatologists note that Total Cleans'r's inclusion of fragrance, benzyl salicylate, and cocamidopropyl betaine limits its suitability for patients with sensitive or dermatitis-prone skin. The five cosmetic dyes, while considered safe in rinse-off cosmetics by regulatory standards, serve no dermatological purpose and represent unnecessary potential sensitizers. Dermatologists who prioritize minimal-ingredient formulations would typically recommend fragrance-free, dye-free cleansers for daily use, particularly for patients with any history of contact sensitivities.

Guidance

Total Cleans'r was one of three products that launched Fenty Skin in July 2020 — alongside Fat Water and Hydra Vizor — establishing the brand's core routine. Rihanna positioned it as the foundation of her personal skincare, emphasizing that a good cleanser should leave skin feeling fresh without any tightness. The product's name, with its deliberate apostrophe, reflects Fenty's brand voice: playful, direct, and unapologetic about being a beauty brand first.

About Fenty Skin Emerging Brand (2–5 years)

Fenty Skin launched in 2020 under Rihanna's Fenty umbrella, developed in partnership with LVMH-owned Kendo Brands. Total Cleans'r was one of the original three launch products. While the brand benefits from LVMH's formulation resources, it has a limited track record of approximately five years and fewer independent clinical validations compared to established skincare brands.

Brand founded: 2020 · Product launched: 2020

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

A single cleanser can remove all makeup, including waterproof formulas.

Reality

Total Cleans'r handles most daily makeup, regular sunscreen, and light foundation effectively. However, waterproof mascara, longwear eyeliner, and heavy-duty SPF products are designed to resist water and surfactants — no single gel cleanser removes them completely without significant rubbing. For full-face removal, double-cleansing with an oil-based cleanser first yields much better results.

Myth

Amino acid cleansers are always better than sulfate cleansers for your skin.

Reality

Amino acid surfactants like sodium cocoyl glycinate are generally milder than sulfates, but 'better' depends on context. For sensitive or dry skin, amino acid cleansers preserve more barrier lipids. For very oily skin that needs thorough oil control, a well-formulated sulfate cleanser may actually be more effective. The right surfactant depends on your skin type and needs, not a blanket ingredient hierarchy.

FAQ

Common Praise

"Creamy lather feels luxurious and spreads easily"

"Removes most daily makeup in a single wash"

"Skin feels soft and hydrated after rinsing, not tight"

"A little product goes a long way"

"Pleasant scent that most users enjoy"

Common Complaints

"Struggles with waterproof eye makeup and heavy-duty SPF"

"Contains fragrance and cosmetic dyes unnecessarily"

"Price is high for what is fundamentally a basic cleanser"

"Cocamidopropyl betaine can sensitize some users over time"

"Packaging squeeze tube can be hard to control dispensing"

Notable Endorsements

One of Fenty Skin's three original launch products4.8 stars on Boots with 1,600+ reviews

Appears In

best cleanser for combination skin best makeup removing cleanser best celebrity cleanser best amino acid cleanser

Related Conditions

dullness

Related Ingredients

vitamin c green tea glycerin