Baby Balm

Amyris is not a name most skincare consumers would recognize. It is a biotechnology company that figured out how to ferment sugarcane into squalane — the same lipid that human skin produces naturally but begins losing in our twenties. When Amyris launched Pipette in 2019, the pitch was straightforward: take that pharmaceutical-grade squalane and build the gentlest possible baby skincare line around it. The Baby Balm is the most concentrated expression of that philosophy, and somewhere along the way, it became one of those products that parents start buying for their babies and end up using on themselves.

The ingredient list tells you everything you need to know in seven lines. Squalane leads — the first ingredient and the functional backbone of the entire formula. Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides provide additional emolliency and help structure the balm texture. Jojoba esters contribute skin-compatible moisture. Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera (berry wax) gives the balm its semi-solid body and silky spreadability. Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate acts as an emollient thickener. Pomegranate sterols deliver antioxidant-rich phytosterols that support barrier repair. And tocopherol (vitamin E) provides antioxidant protection for both skin and formula stability. That is it. No water, no preservatives needed in an anhydrous system, no fragrances, no dyes, no marketing ingredients.

Seven ingredients. In a market where even baby products routinely contain twenty or more components — including preservatives, emulsifiers, and fragrances — this level of minimalism is striking. And it is not minimalism for its own sake. Every ingredient serves a moisturizing or barrier-supporting function. There is nothing to react to because there is nothing extra in the jar.

The texture is where expectations get pleasantly subverted. If you are used to petroleum-based baby balms — Aquaphor, Vaseline — you might expect this to be a thick, greasy paste. Instead, the squalane base gives it a silky, almost fluid feel when it contacts warm skin. It melts on contact, spreads without dragging, and absorbs partially rather than sitting as a heavy occlusive layer. Chapped lips, dry cuticles, rough elbows, irritated diaper zones — it addresses all of these with the same effortless application.

The occlusive properties are genuine but different from petroleum. Where petrolatum creates an impermeable seal (which is why it is still the gold standard for wound healing), squalane's occlusion is breathable — it slows transepidermal water loss without completely blocking skin function. For healthy skin that just needs moisture retention, this is arguably preferable. For severely compromised or actively inflamed skin, plain petrolatum may still be more therapeutically effective.

What earns this product particular respect is the third-party validation. EWG Verified means the Environmental Working Group has audited every ingredient for safety — a standard that many baby care brands claim to meet but few actually submit to verification for. Leaping Bunny certification confirms cruelty-free status through independent audit. Pediatrician approval and dermatologist testing add clinical credibility. For parents navigating the anxiety-inducing landscape of what to put on their newborn's skin, these certifications provide genuine reassurance.

The sustainability story adds another layer. Traditional squalane was historically derived from shark liver — environmentally destructive and ethically problematic. Olive-derived squalane emerged as an alternative but with variable purity. Amyris's sugarcane fermentation produces squalane that is both more consistently pure and more sustainable than either traditional source. It is one of the rare cases where the biotechnology actually delivers on both performance and environmental claims.

At $11.99 for 2 ounces, the price-to-quality ratio is remarkably strong. You are getting biotech-grade squalane in a formula cleaner than most products three times the price. The size is small, and heavy users will go through it in a month, but even at that rate the annual cost is under $150 — reasonable for a multipurpose product used daily.

The only significant limitation is the balm's scope. This is a moisturizer and barrier protector, not a treatment. It will not resolve severe eczema flares, heal active rashes, or replace medicated products when they are needed. It is the gentle daily maintenance product that keeps skin in good enough condition that you need those treatments less often. For what it sets out to do — deliver clean, effective, sustainable moisture protection for the most sensitive skin — it does the job with quiet excellence.

Formula

The Science

Squalane's role as a skin-compatible emollient is well-supported by dermatological research. Squalene, its unsaturated precursor, constitutes approximately 12% of human sebum and is a key component of the skin's natural lipid barrier. Hydrogenation to squalane improves oxidative stability while preserving the biomimetic moisturizing properties. A 2020 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science confirmed that squalane application reduces transepidermal water loss and improves skin barrier function in both infant and adult skin.

The decision to build this formula around squalane rather than petrolatum reflects an evidence-based alternative approach. While petrolatum remains the most effective single-ingredient occlusive (reducing TEWL by up to 98%), squalane provides a breathable occlusive effect that supports normal skin function while still significantly reducing moisture loss. For healthy skin requiring maintenance hydration rather than therapeutic intervention, this lighter occlusion is often preferred.

Pomegranate sterols (Punica Granatum sterols) provide phytosterols structurally similar to cholesterol — a critical component of the stratum corneum's lipid matrix. Research in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry has demonstrated that pomegranate seed oil sterols exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, supporting barrier repair in a plant-derived, sustainable format.

Dermatologist Perspective

Pediatric dermatologists increasingly recommend minimally formulated, fragrance-free moisturizers for infant skin care, particularly for babies with atopic predisposition. Board-certified dermatologists note that squalane's biomimetic properties — structurally similar to the squalene in human sebum and newborn vernix — make it a theoretically ideal moisturizing base for infant skin. The seven-ingredient formula eliminates the preservative and fragrance exposure concerns that dermatologists frequently raise about commercial baby products. Dermatologists would note, however, that for active eczema or diaper dermatitis, a dedicated treatment (such as a zinc oxide barrier cream or low-potency topical corticosteroid) may be needed in addition to this balm. As a daily maintenance moisturizer for prevention and general skin protection, this formula aligns well with current pediatric dermatology recommendations.

Guidance

Pipette was created by Amyris, a biotechnology company that developed a method to produce squalane from sugarcane fermentation rather than extracting it from shark liver (the traditional source) or olives. The Baby Balm was designed to leverage this clean, sustainable squalane as the base for the gentlest possible multipurpose balm — one safe enough for newborn skin from day one.

About Pipette Emerging Brand (2–5 years)

Pipette was launched in 2019 by Amyris, a biotechnology company specializing in sustainable ingredient manufacturing. The brand was co-created with Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and formulated with the support of biologists, pediatricians, and dermatologists. Its hero ingredient — sugarcane-derived squalane — is produced by Amyris's proprietary fermentation technology.

Brand founded: 2019 · Product launched: 2019

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

Baby balms need petroleum or mineral oil as a base to be effective.

Reality

This formula achieves comparable occlusive moisturization using squalane, jojoba esters, and plant-derived waxes — no petroleum derivatives at all. Squalane actually mimics the skin's own natural lipids (squalene), making it a biomimetic alternative that many dermatologists consider preferable for sensitive or compromised skin.

Myth

A product with only seven ingredients can't be effective.

Reality

The minimal ingredient list is a feature, not a limitation. Each ingredient serves a specific moisturizing or barrier-supporting function. Fewer ingredients means fewer potential irritants or allergens — critical for newborn and eczema-prone skin. The EWG Verified certification and pediatrician approval confirm that simplicity can equal efficacy.

FAQ

Common Praise

"Incredibly gentle and safe for newborn skin"

"Multipurpose — works on lips, cuticles, and dry patches for adults too"

"Only seven clean ingredients"

"No fragrance or irritants"

"Great value for the ingredient quality"

"Effective on eczema-prone skin"

Common Complaints

"Small 2 oz size runs out quickly with regular use"

"Balm texture can feel greasy if over-applied"

"Currently sold out on brand website"

"Not effective as a standalone treatment for severe eczema flares"

"Packaging (jar format) requires finger contact which can introduce bacteria"

Notable Endorsements

EWG VerifiedLeaping Bunny CertifiedPediatrician approvedDermatologist testedYuka 100/100

Appears In

best body care for eczema best body care for dryness best body care for sensitivity

Related Conditions

dryness eczema sensitivity compromised skin barrier

Related Ingredients

squalane jojoba oil vitamin e