A genuinely sensorial cleansing balm that turns makeup removal into an aromatherapeutic ritual — the natural blue color from chamazulene is stunning and the dual-chamomile soothing complex is thoughtful. But seven essential oils, cocoa butter comedogenicity, and a $50 cleanser price tag mean this is a product for the ritual-minded, not the practical-minded.
Blue Moon Tranquility Cleansing Balm
A genuinely sensorial cleansing balm that turns makeup removal into an aromatherapeutic ritual — the natural blue color from chamazulene is stunning and the dual-chamomile soothing complex is thoughtful. But seven essential oils, cocoa butter comedogenicity, and a $50 cleanser price tag mean this is a product for the ritual-minded, not the practical-minded.
Score Breakdown
Where this product gains points and where it loses them — broken down across the four scoring pillars.
A sensorial, botanically rich cleansing balm with genuine anti-inflammatory ingredients and a sugar-based surfactant system. However, the heavy essential oil load (citrus, ylang ylang, neroli) narrows the audience, the cocoa butter raises comedogenicity concerns, and $50 for a cleanser is premium territory. The beeswax means it's not vegan.
Pros & Cons
- ✓Natural chamazulene from blue tansy and German chamomile provides genuine anti-inflammatory soothing
- ✓Sugar-based surfactant system cleanses thoroughly without stripping the skin barrier
- ✓Skin feels genuinely moisturized and soft after rinsing — never tight or dry
- ✓Stunning natural blue color creates a visually unique and memorable product experience
- ✓Versatile as both a first cleanse and a hydrating face mask for extended use
- ✓Silicone-free, paraben-free, sulfate-free from a B Corp certified brand
- ✗Seven essential oils create significant sensitization risk for fragrance-allergic users
- ✗Cocoa butter (comedogenicity rating 4/5) may trigger breakouts in acne-prone skin
- ✗Waxy texture has less glide than many popular cleansing balms — some find it sticky
- ✗At $50 for a wash-off product, the price is a hard sell for budget-conscious consumers
- ✗Contains beeswax — not vegan despite the brand's cruelty-free certification
- ✗May not fully remove stubborn waterproof liquid liner without a second cleanse
Full Review
Before Sunday Riley's Blue Moon, most people could not have told you what chamazulene was. After Blue Moon, thousands of skincare enthusiasts could not only name the compound but explain that it forms during steam distillation of blue tansy flowers, that it possesses anti-inflammatory properties, and that it produces one of the most striking natural colors in the skincare world — a deep, vivid blue that makes this cleansing balm immediately recognizable from across a bathroom shelf. Sunday Riley did not just make a cleanser; the brand made an object.
Launched in October 2015, Blue Moon arrived at the intersection of two trends: the Western adoption of K-beauty-inspired double cleansing, and the growing consumer appetite for products that feel like rituals rather than routines. A cleansing balm was no longer just a makeup removal step — it was the opening act of an evening skincare performance. And Blue Moon, with its impossible color, its complex botanical aroma, and its $50 price tag, was designed to be the most memorable opening act possible.
The formula centers on blue tansy (Tanacetum annuum) and German chamomile (Matricaria recutita), both of which contain chamazulene — the compound responsible for the blue hue and the anti-inflammatory claims. A 2024 review in Current Functional Foods summarized the available evidence on blue tansy's constituents and documented "strong anti-inflammatory properties" from chamazulene, along with antibacterial qualities. However, the review also acknowledged that no formal clinical trials on human skin subjects have been published. The evidence sits between traditional use and emerging science — more substantive than pure folklore, less robust than the clinical validation behind ingredients like niacinamide or retinol.
What is clear is that the dual-chamomile approach creates a noticeably soothing cleansing experience. Skin that is irritated, sensitized, or simply tired at the end of a long day feels calmed during the massage-and-rinse process. This is where the wash-off format actually works to Blue Moon's advantage — the extended skin contact during a 60-second massage gives the botanical oils time to interact with the skin before being rinsed away.
The cleansing mechanism relies on sucrose laurate, a sugar-based surfactant that dissolves makeup and impurities without the stripping effect of traditional sulfate surfactants. It works well for everyday makeup, foundation, and most mascaras. Multiple reviewers confirm effective single-pass removal of standard makeup. Where it falls short is with truly stubborn waterproof liquid liners and heavy theatrical makeup — for those, a second water-based cleanser is necessary.
The supporting cast of oils builds the emollient architecture: caprylic/capric triglyceride (coconut-derived) forms the primary base, jojoba esters provide slip and conditioning, cocoa butter contributes rich fatty acid nourishment, and moringa oil esters add antioxidant conditioning. The result is a cleansing step that leaves skin feeling genuinely moisturized — not just "not stripped," but actively softer and more hydrated than it was before cleansing. For dry and normal skin types, this transforms an otherwise unremarkable nightly task into something that skin looks forward to.
The texture is polarizing. Blue Moon is richer and waxier than the silky, sherbet-like cleansing balms that have become mainstream. There is a slight graininess from the sugar-based particles that provides gentle physical exfoliation. Some users find this tactile variety luxurious and interesting. Others find it sticky, lacking the easy glide they expect from a cleansing balm. If your reference point is a Korean cleansing balm that melts like butter on contact, Blue Moon's thicker, more deliberate texture will be an adjustment.
The essential oil blend demands discussion. Seven distinct essential oils — tangerine, sweet orange, blue tansy, German chamomile, ylang ylang, neroli, and Roman chamomile — create a complex herbal-citrus-floral aroma that is pronounced and unmistakable. Sunday Riley has sometimes positioned the product as having no added synthetic fragrance, which is technically true. But the essential oils function as fragrance, they contain allergenic compounds (limonene, linalool), and for anyone with essential oil sensitivities, the concentration here is significant. The citrus oils in particular raise photosensitivity concerns, though as a PM-use product, this is less problematic than it would be in a morning cleanser.
Comedogenicity is the other concern. Cocoa seed butter has a comedogenicity rating of 4 out of 5 — among the highest of commonly used skincare ingredients. In a wash-off product, the contact time is shorter than a leave-on treatment, which mitigates the risk somewhat. But for acne-prone skin, even the temporary presence of a highly comedogenic ingredient on the face can contribute to clogged pores, particularly if the balm is not rinsed thoroughly or if it is used as a leave-on mask.
The dual-use capability — cleanser by default, hydrating mask by choice — adds functionality that partially justifies the premium price. Applied to clean skin and left for twenty minutes, Blue Moon functions as a soothing, hydrating treatment that leverages the anti-inflammatory botanicals during extended contact time. This mask-mode application is particularly satisfying during dry winter months when skin craves both moisture and calm.
At $50 for 3.5 ounces, Blue Moon asks you to pay luxury pricing for a product you wash down the drain every night. The ingredients justify a premium over drugstore cleansing balms — blue tansy oil is genuinely expensive, the essential oil blend is complex, and the B Corp certified brand meets ethical standards that add production costs. But $50 is still $50 for a cleanser, and the honest assessment is that you can achieve equally thorough cleansing with significantly less expensive balms that lack the blue color, the aromatherapy, and the ritual.
Blue Moon is not for the practical consumer who views cleansing as a functional task to complete efficiently. It is for the person who believes that the ten minutes they spend on their evening skincare routine deserve to feel special — who wants to open a jar, see a vivid blue, smell a complex botanical garden, and feel the day dissolving away under their fingertips. That desire is entirely valid, and for that consumer, Blue Moon delivers an experience that no other cleanser replicates.
Formula
Key Ingredients
The hero actives that drive this product's performance.
| Ingredient | Function | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Blue Tansy Oil (Tanacetum Annuum) | The signature ingredient responsible for the balm's distinctive blue color, thanks to its naturally occurring chamazulene compound. In this cleansing context, blue tansy provides anti-inflammatory soothing during the makeup removal process — calming the skin as it is being worked rather than waiting for a post-cleanse treatment step. | emerging |
| German Chamomile Essential Oil | A second source of chamazulene that amplifies the anti-inflammatory and soothing properties of the blue tansy. Together, the two chamomile-family oils create a concentrated calming complex that turns the cleansing step into an active soothing treatment for reactive or sensitized skin. | well-established |
| Sucrose Laurate | A sugar-based surfactant that provides the formula's gentle cleansing action. Unlike traditional sulfate surfactants, sucrose laurate dissolves makeup and impurities without disrupting the skin's lipid barrier — enabling thorough cleansing without the tight, stripped feeling. | well-established |
| Cocoa Seed Butter | Provides the rich, emollient backbone of the balm texture while depositing nourishing fatty acids and polyphenols on the skin during the cleansing process. Ensures that the skin feels moisturized rather than stripped after rinsing. | well-established |
| Moringa Oil Esters | An antioxidant-rich conditioning oil that adds softening and skin-nourishing properties to the cleansing step. Moringa oil's oleic acid content helps dissolve oil-based makeup and sunscreen while conditioning the skin. | promising |
Full INCI List
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sucrose Laurate, Jojoba Esters, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Polyglycerin-3, Glyceryl Behenate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, PEG-8 Beeswax, Cetyl Alcohol, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Squalene, Tangerine (Citrus Tangerina) Oil, Citrus Sinensis (Sweet Orange) Oil, Tanacetum Annuum (Blue Tansy) Leaf Oil, Matricaria Recutita (German Chamomile) Essential Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Ylang Ylang (Cananga Odorata) Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Var. Amara (Neroli) Flower Oil, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile Roman) Flower Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol
Product Flags
✗ Fragrance Free✓ Alcohol Free✗ Oil Free✓ Silicone Free✓ Paraben Free✓ Sulfate Free✓ Cruelty Free✗ Vegan✗ Fungal Acne Safe
Comedogenic Ingredients
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Potential Irritants
Citrus Tangerina OilCitrus Sinensis OilYlang Ylang Flower OilCeteth-20Steareth-20
Common Allergens
Citrus essential oils (contain limonene, linalool)Ylang Ylang oilNeroli oil
Compatibility
Skin Match
Best For
Works For
Not Ideal For
Addresses These Conditions
dryness dehydration dullness sensitivity compromised skin barrier
Use With Caution
Avoid With
Routine Step
cleanser
Time of Day
PM
Pregnancy Safe
Unknown
Layering Tips
Use as the first step in a double cleanse routine. Scoop a small amount with dry hands, massage onto dry face for 60 seconds to dissolve makeup and sunscreen, then add water to emulsify into a milk. Rinse thoroughly. Follow with a water-based second cleanser if desired, or use as a standalone cleanse for lighter makeup days. Can also be used as a hydrating mask — apply to clean skin and leave for 20 minutes before rinsing.
Results Timeline
Immediate makeup removal and soft, hydrated skin feel from the first use. Cumulative soothing benefits for irritated or sensitized skin develop over 1-2 weeks of consistent PM use. The aromatic essential oil blend provides an immediate sensory experience.
Pairs Well With
Gentle water-based second cleanser (for double cleansing)Hydrating toner after cleansingFacial oils for extra PM nourishment
Sample AM Routine
- Water rinse or gentle cleanser
- Serum
- Moisturizer
- Sunscreen
Sample PM Routine
- Sunday Riley Blue Moon Cleansing Balm (first cleanse)
- Water-based cleanser (optional second cleanse)
- Treatment serum
- Night cream
Evidence
Science & Expert Perspective
The Science
The anti-inflammatory claims for Blue Moon center on chamazulene, a sesquiterpene compound present in both blue tansy (Tanacetum annuum) and German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) essential oils. Chamazulene forms during steam distillation from matricine, a precursor compound in the plant material. A 2024 review in Current Functional Foods summarized the pharmacological profile of blue tansy oil, documenting strong anti-inflammatory activity attributed to chamazulene's ability to inhibit leukotriene B4 synthesis — a key inflammatory mediator. The review also noted antibacterial properties from other constituents including sabinene and myrcene.
However, the evidence base for blue tansy specifically applied to skin remains in the emerging category. No formal randomized controlled trials on human skin subjects have been published for blue tansy oil. The anti-inflammatory mechanism of chamazulene is well-characterized in vitro, but clinical validation in dermatological applications is limited to anecdotal and case-based evidence, including a 2015 finding in Clinical Aromatherapy documenting blue tansy's soothing effects on radiation burns in cancer patients.
German chamomile has a more established evidence base. Bisabolol — another key component of German chamomile — has documented anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, and wound-healing properties supported by multiple clinical studies. The combination of chamazulene from two sources (blue tansy and German chamomile) creates a concentrated anti-inflammatory cocktail, though the specific concentrations in this cleansing balm are not disclosed.
Dermatologist Perspective
Board-certified dermatologists generally regard oil-based cleansing balms as effective first-cleanse options that dissolve makeup and sunscreen without disrupting the acid mantle. The sugar-based surfactant system in Blue Moon is well-regarded as a gentler alternative to sulfate-based cleansers. However, dermatologists who treat acne-prone skin express concern about the cocoa butter content, noting its high comedogenicity rating. The essential oil load — seven distinct oils including citrus and ylang ylang — is flagged by dermatologists who specialize in contact dermatitis and fragrance sensitivity. While the anti-inflammatory potential of chamazulene is scientifically plausible, dermatologists note that the evidence base for blue tansy in skincare remains preliminary compared to better-studied anti-inflammatory ingredients.
Guidance
Usage Guide
How to Use
Scoop a small amount (about the size of a large grape) with dry hands. Massage onto dry face in circular motions for 60 seconds, allowing the balm to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and impurities. Add a splash of warm water and continue massaging — the balm will transform into a milky emulsion. Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Follow with a water-based cleanser for a double cleanse, or proceed directly to serums and moisturizer if using as a standalone cleanse. For mask use: apply to clean, dry skin, leave for 20 minutes, then rinse.
Value Assessment
At $50 for 3.5 oz, Blue Moon sits in the luxury cleanser segment. The ingredients justify a premium — blue tansy oil is expensive, the essential oil blend is complex, and Sunday Riley's B Corp certification adds ethical production costs. The jar lasts 2-3 months with daily PM use, putting the annual cost at $200-300. The dual-use capability as both cleanser and mask adds functional value. However, the core cleansing function can be replicated by significantly less expensive balms. The price reflects the ritual experience and botanical complexity more than irreplaceable cleansing performance.
Who Should Buy
Dry and normal skin types who want a sensorial, ritualistic cleansing experience with genuine botanical anti-inflammatory benefits. Skincare enthusiasts who appreciate aromatherapy, natural ingredients, and products that transform an ordinary routine step into something special. Those whose skin feels calm and comfortable with essential oil-rich products.
Who Should Skip
Anyone with essential oil sensitivities or fragrance allergies — the seven-oil blend is potent. Acne-prone skin that reacts to cocoa butter or rich oil-based products. Vegan consumers (contains beeswax). Budget-conscious shoppers who cannot justify $50 for a wash-off cleanser. Oily skin types who prefer lightweight, minimal-residue cleansing.
Ready to try Sunday Riley Blue Moon Tranquility Cleansing Balm?
Details
Details
Texture
Soft, slightly grainy balm with sugar-based exfoliating particles. Transforms from a solid balm to a milky emulsion when water is added. The texture is richer and waxier than many modern cleansing balms, with less glide — some users find this luxurious, others find it sticky.
Scent
A complex herbal-citrus-floral aromatic blend of blue tansy, German chamomile, Roman chamomile, tangerine, sweet orange, ylang ylang, neroli, and vanilla. The scent is pronounced and spa-like. No synthetic fragrance is used — the aroma comes entirely from essential oils.
Packaging
Glass jar with a distinctive blue lid. The balm itself is a striking medium blue color from the natural chamazulene in the blue tansy and German chamomile oils. The jar format is flat and relatively travel-friendly for a glass container.
Finish
dewysatinlightweight
What to Expect on First Use
On first use, expect the vivid blue color to be immediately striking. The balm feels rich and waxy when scooped from the jar. As you massage it onto dry skin, it warms and begins to dissolve makeup. The herbal-citrus scent is aromatic and pronounced. Adding water transforms the balm into a milky emulsion that rinses away. Skin feels soft and hydrated after rinsing — the first-use experience is distinctly sensorial.
How Long It Lasts
2-3 months with daily PM use as a first cleanse
Period After Opening
12 months
Best Season
fall winter
Certifications
Leaping Bunny CertifiedPETA Cruelty-FreeB Corp Certified Brand
Background
The Why
Launched in October 2015, Blue Moon was Sunday Riley's entry into the cleansing balm category at a time when oil-based cleansing was gaining mainstream acceptance beyond the K-beauty community. The founder chose blue tansy — an expensive Moroccan essential oil — as the hero ingredient, betting that the vivid natural blue color and aromatherapeutic experience would differentiate it in a crowded market. The gamble paid off: Blue Moon became a cult favorite among skincare enthusiasts who were willing to spend more for a cleanser that felt like a ritual rather than a chore.
About Sunday Riley Established Brand (5–20 years)
Sunday Riley was founded in 2009 in Houston, Texas by its namesake founder. The brand is B Corp certified, Leaping Bunny and PETA cruelty-free certified, and is known for ingredient-forward formulations. Its hero product Good Genes has received extensive editorial and dermatologist recognition, though the brand faced an FTC investigation in 2019 over fake reviews on Sephora.
Brand founded: 2009 · Product launched: 2015
Myth vs. Reality
Myths & Misconceptions
Myth
The blue color in Blue Moon is from artificial dye or food coloring.
Reality
The blue color is entirely natural, produced by chamazulene — a compound naturally present in blue tansy (Tanacetum annuum) and German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) essential oils. Chamazulene forms during the steam distillation process and gives both oils their characteristic deep blue hue.
Myth
Cleansing balms leave an oily residue that clogs pores and causes breakouts.
Reality
When properly emulsified with water, well-formulated cleansing balms rinse clean. Blue Moon's sugar-based surfactant system (sucrose laurate) helps the oils emulsify and wash away. However, this particular formula's cocoa butter content may be comedogenic for acne-prone skin — it is the specific ingredient, not the balm format, that could cause issues.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is Sunday Riley Blue Moon blue?
The striking blue color comes from chamazulene, a naturally occurring compound in blue tansy (Tanacetum annuum) and German chamomile essential oils. Chamazulene forms during the steam distillation process and gives both oils their characteristic deep blue hue. No artificial dyes or colorants are used.
Is Sunday Riley Blue Moon worth $50 for a cleanser?
It depends on what you value. If you want a sensorial, spa-like cleansing experience with genuine anti-inflammatory botanicals and don't mind paying premium for a wash-off product, Blue Moon delivers a unique ritual. If you prioritize value and view cleansing as a functional step, the $50 price is hard to justify when effective cleansing balms exist at a fraction of the cost.
Can I use Blue Moon as my only cleanser?
For lighter makeup days, Blue Moon can work as a standalone cleanse — the sugar-based surfactant system dissolves impurities and the balm-to-milk texture rinses clean. For heavy or waterproof makeup, a second water-based cleanser is recommended to ensure complete removal and prevent residue buildup.
Is Sunday Riley Blue Moon fragrance-free?
No. While the brand sometimes positions it as 'no added synthetic fragrance,' Blue Moon contains seven essential oils — tangerine, sweet orange, blue tansy, German chamomile, ylang ylang, neroli, and Roman chamomile — that provide a pronounced aromatic experience. These natural fragrance sources can be sensitizing for people with essential oil allergies.
Can I use Blue Moon as a face mask?
Yes — Sunday Riley recommends applying it to clean skin and leaving it on for 20 minutes as a hydrating, soothing mask treatment. The blue tansy and chamomile oils provide anti-inflammatory benefits during extended contact time. Rinse with warm water and follow with your regular skincare routine.
Is Sunday Riley Blue Moon vegan?
No. The formula contains PEG-8 Beeswax and Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax — both derived from bees. The brand is cruelty-free (Leaping Bunny certified) but this specific product is not vegan.
Will Blue Moon break me out?
It depends on your skin. The formula contains cocoa seed butter, which has a comedogenicity rating of 4 out of 5 — one of the highest among common skincare ingredients. If you are prone to comedonal acne or clogged pores, this balm may not be the best choice for your skin despite its gentle cleansing action.
Community
Community Voices
Common Praise
"Effectively removes makeup including waterproof mascara in a single cleanse"
"Skin feels clean, soft, and genuinely moisturized after rinsing — never stripped"
"Beautiful blue color and aromatic herbal scent create a luxurious spa-like experience"
"Gentle sugar-based exfoliation leaves a subtle glow after use"
"Can double as a hydrating face mask for an extra pampering step"
"Non-stripping formula maintains skin barrier during cleansing"
Common Complaints
"Waxy sticky texture with less slip than many popular cleansing balms"
"Some users find it does not fully remove stubborn waterproof liquid liner"
"Can leave a slight residue or film on skin that requires a second cleanse"
"Strong essential oil scent is overpowering for fragrance-sensitive users"
"Cocoa butter may trigger breakouts in acne-prone skin"
"At $50 for a cleanser, the price is difficult to justify for a wash-off product"
Notable Endorsements
Leaping Bunny and PETA certified cruelty-freeB Corp certified brandCult favorite among skincare editors and enthusiasts
Appears In
best cleanser for dryness best cleanser for sensitivity best luxury cleanser best cleansing balm
Related Conditions
dryness dehydration sensitivity dullness compromised skin barrier
Related Ingredients
You Might Also Like
Quinoa-Led Gentle Daily Cleanser Quinoa One Step Balanced Gel Cleanser
A fragrance-free, sulfate-free gel cleanser built around quinoa seed extract and a gentle amphoteric-plus-nonionic surfactant pair. Non-stripping, broadly suitable, and priced reasonably — one of the safest recommendations in the daily gentle cleanser category.
Sensitive Skin MVP Hydrating Facial Cleanser
The CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser is the cleanser that taught a generation of dry-skin sufferers that washing your face does not have to mean punishing it. A lotion-textured, non-foaming formula that genuinely hydrates while it cleans, it remains the benchmark drugstore cleanser for anyone whose skin drinks moisture faster than most products can provide it.
Derm Office Staple Foaming Facial Cleanser
The CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser is the rare drugstore cleanser that dermatologists actually use themselves — a genuinely gentle foaming wash that removes excess oil without triggering the rebound sebum production that plagues most lathering cleansers. At under sixteen dollars for a bottle that lasts months, it makes skipping it almost irrational.
Cult-Status Makeup Eraser Take the Day Off Cleansing Balm
The cleansing balm that earned its cult status through radical restraint — nine ingredients, zero fragrance, and the ability to dissolve anything from waterproof mascara to SPF 50 without disturbing even the most reactive skin. Not the most glamorous product in any routine, but possibly the most universally reliable.
Japanese Drugstore Classic Mild Cleansing Oil
A two-decade-old Japanese drugstore staple that still outperforms most modern cleansing oils on the single metric that matters: does it remove sunscreen cleanly without leaving a film. The fragrance-free, ester-based formula is gentle enough for reactive skin and thoughtfully augmented with vitamin C and plant oils. Quietly one of the best first-cleanse options on the market.
The Original Micellar Water Sensibio H2O Micellar Water
The product that launched an entire skincare category remains, three decades later, one of the gentlest and most effective no-rinse cleansers available. Bioderma Sensibio H2O earns its cult status through radical simplicity — 10 ingredients, zero fragrance, and a formula so mild it was originally dispensed by prescription.