100% Plant-Derived Squalane

There's a quiet elegance to a product that contains exactly one ingredient. No stabilizers, no emulsifiers, no fragrance, no preservatives — just squalane derived from sugarcane, bottled in Toronto, and sold for a price that borders on charitable. The Ordinary's 100% Plant-Derived Squalane is the kind of product that makes skincare feel refreshingly straightforward.

The science behind squalane starts with your own body. Squalene — the unsaturated precursor — is one of the most abundant lipids in human sebum, constituting roughly 12% of the oily mixture that keeps your skin supple, protected, and functioning as a proper barrier. The problem is that squalene production peaks in your teens and twenties, then declines steadily. By your thirties, the drop is noticeable. By your forties, it's significant. Topical squalane is essentially replenishment therapy — putting back what biology is taking away.

The plant-derived part matters more than you might think. Traditional squalane was sourced from shark liver oil, which is both ethically problematic and increasingly regulated. This product uses squalane derived from sugarcane fermentation, which produces a cleaner, higher-purity molecule. But the sourcing distinction goes beyond ethics: sugarcane-derived squalane contains fewer trace fatty acid impurities than olive-derived alternatives, which makes it safe for those prone to fungal acne — a distinction that olive-sourced squalane products can't always claim.

On the skin, this oil feels almost like nothing. Where the argan oil in The Ordinary's lineup has weight and presence, squalane is ghostly in its lightness. A few drops spread across the face and absorb within a minute or two, leaving behind a subtle healthy sheen rather than an oily film. There's no scent whatsoever — not even the faint botanical notes you'd find in most plant oils. It's skincare stripped to its most functional essence.

The mechanism of action is elegantly simple. Squalane functions primarily as an emollient and lightweight occlusive. It fills the gaps between corneocytes in the stratum corneum, smoothing the skin's surface and reducing the microscopic cracks through which moisture escapes. A clinical study on a squalane-containing serum documented statistically significant TEWL reductions of 2.61, 3.39, and 3.76 g/h/m² at 7, 14, and 28 days respectively — meaning the barrier gets progressively stronger with consistent use.

More recent research has revealed that squalane isn't merely passive. A 2025 study published in Molecules found that squalane counteracted UVA-induced inhibition of collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts and demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity by reducing NF-kB and COX-2 expression. This suggests squalane isn't just locking moisture in — it's actively supporting the skin's repair mechanisms when under environmental assault.

The versatility of this product is one of its strongest selling points. It works beautifully as a final step over hydrating serums, locking in the water that hyaluronic acid draws to the skin's surface. It buffers the dryness and irritation that retinoids can cause without interfering with their activity. It can be mixed into foundation for a more luminous application. It works on dry cuticles, cracked lips, and frizzy hair ends. The fact that it's odorless and non-reactive makes it compatible with essentially every other product in your routine.

But — and this is an important but — squalane is not a moisturizer in the way most people understand the word. It doesn't add water to the skin. It prevents water from leaving. If you apply squalane to dry, dehydrated skin without any hydrating product underneath, you'll seal in the dryness and wonder what all the fuss was about. The key to getting this product right is layering: humectant first (hyaluronic acid, glycerin-based serum), then squalane to trap it. Get this order right and the results are genuinely impressive. Get it wrong and you'll dismiss it as overrated.

The packaging is standard Ordinary — functional, minimal, and decidedly unglamorous. The amber glass protects the oil from light, though squalane is considerably more photo-stable than its unsaturated precursor squalene. The dropper dispenses a reasonable amount per squeeze, though it can be slightly messy on the bottle neck after repeated use.

At $10.40 for 30 mL, the pricing follows The Ordinary's disruptive philosophy. Comparable plant-derived squalane oils from premium brands cost $25-40 for the same volume and the same single ingredient. The ECOCERT approval and USDA Bio-based certification provide third-party quality verification that most competitors at this price point don't offer.

The six-month PAO is worth noting — shorter than many skincare products, though squalane's hydrogenated structure makes it inherently more stable than unsaturated oils. Wiping the dropper neck clean after each use helps prevent the slight gumminess that some users report over time.

This is not a product that announces itself. It doesn't tingle, glow, foam, or transform on contact. It doesn't photograph well for social media. It is, in the most literal sense, the oil your skin already makes, delivered from a sugarcane plant instead of your own sebaceous glands. For the many people whose skin has started producing less of it than it needs, that quiet biological relevance is exactly the point.

Formula

The Science

Squalane's biological relevance is well established. Human sebum contains approximately 12% squalene, its unsaturated precursor, making exogenous squalane one of the most skin-compatible lipids available in topical skincare. The hydrogenation that converts squalene to squalane eliminates the double bonds that make squalene susceptible to oxidation, producing a shelf-stable molecule with identical emollient properties.

A comprehensive review by Huang et al., published in Molecules (2009), documented squalene and squalane's roles as efficient singlet oxygen quenchers and lipid peroxidation inhibitors. The review noted that squalene constitutes a significant portion of the skin surface lipid film and plays a critical role in protecting deeper skin layers from UV-induced oxidative damage.

More recent research has expanded understanding of squalane's active properties. A 2025 study published in Molecules by investigators studying human dermal fibroblasts found that squalane at concentrations as low as 0.005-0.015% counteracted UVA-induced inhibition of collagen biosynthesis. The same study demonstrated that squalane stimulated fibroblast migration — relevant to wound healing — and showed anti-inflammatory activity by counteracting UVA-induced NF-kB and COX-2 expression. These findings suggest squalane is not merely a passive occlusive but actively participates in skin repair pathways.

Clinical data on barrier function supports the TEWL-reducing properties. A study published in CosmoDerma (2023) documented statistically significant TEWL reductions at 7, 14, and 28 days of daily squalane serum use, with progressive improvement over time — indicating cumulative barrier strengthening rather than a purely surface-level effect. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert panel has reviewed squalane's safety profile and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetic products at current concentrations.

References

1. Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology — Molecules (2009)
2. Squalane as a Promising Agent Protecting UV-Induced Inhibition of Collagen Biosynthesis and Wound Healing in Human Dermal Fibroblast — Molecules (2025)

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists frequently recommend squalane as one of the safest and most universally tolerated facial oils available. Board-certified dermatologists note that its skin-identical structure — mimicking the squalene naturally present in human sebum — gives it an exceptionally low risk of irritation or allergic reaction. It is commonly suggested for patients with compromised barriers, post-procedure skin, or those experiencing irritation from retinoids and other active treatments. Dermatologists also highlight that sugarcane-derived squalane, as used in this product, is the preferred source for patients prone to Malassezia folliculitis (fungal acne), as it avoids the trace fatty acid impurities that can be present in olive-derived alternatives.

Guidance

Squalane was one of the earliest products in The Ordinary's lineup, reflecting the brand's philosophy that effective skincare doesn't need complex formulations or luxury pricing. Human skin naturally produces squalene (the unsaturated precursor), but production declines significantly after age 30 — this product replenishes that loss with a stable, plant-derived alternative sourced from sugarcane fermentation.

About The Ordinary Established Brand (5–20 years)

The Ordinary launched in 2016 under DECIEM and rapidly became one of the most recognized clinical skincare brands globally. Its ingredient-first, transparency-driven approach is backed by formulation science, though the brand does not conduct proprietary clinical trials on most products.

Brand founded: 2016 · Product launched: 2016

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

Squalane and squalene are the same thing.

Reality

Squalene (with an 'e') is the unsaturated form naturally produced by human sebaceous glands but is oxidatively unstable. This product contains squalane (with an 'a'), the fully hydrogenated, shelf-stable version that provides the same emollient benefits without the risk of oxidation or rancidity.

Myth

Facial oils like squalane will clog pores and cause breakouts.

Reality

Squalane has a comedogenicity rating of 1 (very low) and an irritancy rating of 0. Its molecular structure closely mimics the skin's own lipids, which means it integrates into the stratum corneum rather than sitting on top and blocking pores. This particular formulation is also fungal acne safe.

FAQ

Common Praise

"Lightweight, non-greasy absorption that doesn't feel heavy on skin"

"Excellent value for a pure, ECOCERT-approved squalane"

"Versatile multi-use product for face, hair, lips, and cuticles"

"Soothes irritated and sensitive skin without causing reactions"

"Non-comedogenic and safe for fungal-acne-prone skin"

"Simple single-ingredient formula with zero irritants"

Common Complaints

"Not hydrating enough on its own for very dry skin — needs layering"

"Can feel oily or shiny if too much is applied"

"Some users find it difficult to layer under makeup without pilling"

"Small bottle runs out quickly with multi-area use"

"Dropper applicator can be messy"

Appears In

best oil for sensitive skin best oil for fungal acne best budget face oil best squalane oil best face oil for retinoid users

Related Conditions

dryness dehydration compromised skin barrier sensitivity fungal acne post procedure winter skin

Related Ingredients

squalane hyaluronic acid ceramides