Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

Some products change a category. This one changed an industry.

When The Ordinary launched the Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% in 2016, the idea that a 10% niacinamide serum could cost six dollars was, to use a technical term, bonkers. The going rate for comparable formulations was $30-60. Brands had built entire product lines around niacinamide as a premium active, wrapping it in complex formulations with proprietary blend names that suggested the ingredient required extensive supporting technology to be effective. Then The Ordinary published an INCI list with eleven ingredients, put a $5.90 price tag on it, and let consumers do the math.

The math was devastating. Niacinamide is not an expensive raw material. Zinc PCA is not an expensive raw material. The supporting ingredients — pentylene glycol, dimethyl isosorbide, tamarindus indica seed gum, xanthan gum — are functional but unremarkable. The total ingredient cost for a 30ml bottle of this serum is, by industry estimates, somewhere around fifty cents. The Ordinary's price reflected this reality. Every other brand's price reflected something else entirely.

Nearly a decade later, this remains the most-reviewed skincare serum on multiple platforms, with nearly 6,000 reviews on Ulta alone, and it continues to be The Ordinary's single bestselling product worldwide. The reasons are straightforward: it does what it says, at a price that makes regular use trivially affordable, with a body of research behind the active ingredient that few skincare actives can match.

Niacinamide at 10% is doing several things simultaneously in this formula. It inhibits the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes — the cellular handoff that creates visible pigmentation — resulting in a gradual brightening of uneven skin tone and fading of dark spots. It downregulates sebaceous lipid production, reducing the excess oil that contributes to shine, enlarged pore appearance, and acne. It stimulates ceramide synthesis in the stratum corneum, strengthening the moisture barrier. And it has anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness and calm blemish-prone skin. All of these benefits are supported by published clinical research at concentrations of 2-5%, and while the extrapolation to 10% isn't perfectly linear, the higher concentration does deliver faster, more pronounced results for most users.

Zinc PCA adds a complementary dimension. Zinc ions have documented antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes (the bacterium implicated in inflammatory acne), while PCA — pyrrolidone carboxylic acid — is a natural moisturizing factor component that provides mild hydration. The combination means this serum attacks oiliness and breakouts from two angles: niacinamide regulates sebum production at the glandular level, while zinc disrupts the bacterial component of acne on the skin surface.

The texture is functional rather than luxurious. It's a slightly viscous, water-based serum that absorbs within a minute but leaves a faintly tacky finish. This stickiness is the product's most common cosmetic complaint, and it's a fair one — under makeup or certain sunscreens, the residue can cause pilling. Using less product (2-3 drops is genuinely sufficient) and allowing full absorption before layering mitigates this, but the texture will never win elegance awards.

Results for oily and combination skin are reliably impressive. Reduced shine within the first week. Pores that appear visibly smaller at two to three weeks — not because they've physically shrunk (pores don't do that), but because reduced sebum production means less stretched, less visible openings. Brightened, more even skin tone at four to six weeks. Fewer and less severe breakouts at six to eight weeks. These aren't miraculous claims — they're the documented effects of niacinamide at working concentrations, delivered in a formula that doesn't interfere with the active's performance.

The limitations center on who this product is NOT for. Dry skin types will find the zinc PCA's sebum-regulating action counterproductive — reducing oil production on skin that doesn't produce enough is a recipe for tightness and discomfort. Sensitive skin may react to the 10% concentration with flushing, irritation, or breakouts. The niacin flush — a temporary warmth and redness triggered by prostaglandin release — affects a meaningful minority of users at this concentration and, while not dangerous, is unpleasant enough to deter continued use. If you experience persistent flushing, mixing the serum with moisturizer to dilute to approximately 5% retains most of the benefits with less irritation risk.

The 60ml size option, added later, is the smart purchase for anyone committed to long-term use. At six to eight months per bottle with twice-daily application, the per-use cost drops below five cents. Five cents for a dose of the most researched brightening and oil-controlling active in skincare. The Ordinary's entire brand promise lives in that number.

There is, by now, an entire universe of niacinamide serums on the market — many of them launched specifically in response to this product's success. Some offer lower concentrations in more elegant textures. Some add additional actives for more targeted concerns. Some cost ten to twenty times more for essentially the same ingredient at the same concentration. The Ordinary's Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% isn't the most sophisticated niacinamide product available. But it's the one that proved what niacinamide could do at a price that made the ingredient accessible to everyone — and in doing so, forced every competitor to answer a question they'd been avoiding: what, exactly, are you charging for?

Formula

The hero actives that drive this product's performance.

Full INCI List · pH 5.75

Aqua (Water), Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Zinc PCA, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Xanthan Gum, Isoceteth-20, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Product Flags

✓ Fragrance Free✓ Alcohol Free✓ Oil Free✓ Silicone Free✓ Paraben Free✓ Sulfate Free✓ Cruelty Free✓ Vegan✓ Fungal Acne Safe

Potential Irritants

Niacinamide at 10% can cause flushing in some users

Compatibility

Best For

oily combination

Works For

normal

Not Ideal For

dry sensitive

Addresses These Conditions

oiliness large pores acne dullness hyperpigmentation texture blackheads

Use With Caution

sensitivity rosacea dryness

Routine Step

serum

Time of Day

AM & PM

Pregnancy Safe

Yes ✓

Layering Tips

Apply after cleansing and water-based toners, before heavier serums and moisturizer. Do NOT combine with direct vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) in the same routine — niacinamide can destabilize vitamin C and cause flushing. Use niacinamide in the morning and vitamin C in the evening, or on alternate days.

Results Timeline

Visible reduction in excess shine within the first week. Pore appearance improvement at 2-3 weeks. Noticeable brightening and more even skin tone at 4-6 weeks. Reduced breakout frequency at 6-8 weeks of consistent use.

Pairs Well With

hyaluronic acidretinoidsAHAs/BHAs (different routine)ceramide moisturizersSPF

Conflicts With

direct vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) in same routine

Sample AM Routine

1. Gentle cleanser
2. The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
3. Moisturizer
4. Broad-spectrum SPF 30+

Sample PM Routine

1. Gentle cleanser
2. AHA/BHA treatment (if using)
3. The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
4. Moisturizer

Evidence

The Science

Niacinamide is one of the most extensively studied topical actives in dermatology, with published research spanning multiple skin concerns. A landmark study by Draelos et al. published in Dermatologic Therapy (2006) demonstrated that 2% niacinamide significantly reduced sebum production in Asian skin over 4 weeks, with continued improvement at 8 weeks. At the 10% concentration used in this serum, the sebum-regulating effect is expected to be more pronounced, though direct dose-response studies at this concentration in cosmetic formulations are limited.

For brightening, Hakozaki et al. published in the British Journal of Dermatology (2002) a double-blind, randomized clinical trial showing that 5% niacinamide significantly reduced hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness over 8 weeks compared to vehicle alone. The mechanism — inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes — is well-characterized and explains the gradual, cumulative brightening effect that users report.

Niacinamide's barrier-strengthening effect is documented through its ability to increase ceramide and sphingolipid synthesis in the stratum corneum. Tanno et al. in the British Journal of Dermatology (2000) demonstrated that topical niacinamide significantly increased free fatty acid and ceramide levels in the skin, directly supporting barrier function and reducing transepidermal water loss.

Zinc PCA contributes antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes alongside sebum-absorbing properties. The combination of niacinamide's glandular sebum regulation with zinc's surface-level antimicrobial action creates a dual-mechanism approach to acne and oiliness that addresses the condition from both the production and bacterial sides.

The niacin flush experienced by some users at 10% is a prostaglandin D2-mediated response — a vasodilatory reaction that causes temporary warmth and redness. This is pharmacologically distinct from irritation or allergy and typically habituates with continued exposure.

References

1. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production — Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2006)
2. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer — British Journal of Dermatology (2002)

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists widely recommend niacinamide as a versatile, well-tolerated active for oily, acne-prone, and hyperpigmented skin. Board-certified dermatologists note that niacinamide's multifunctionality — addressing sebum, pigmentation, barrier function, and inflammation simultaneously — makes it one of the most efficient single actives in skincare. This specific formula is frequently cited as an affordable entry point, though some dermatologists note that the 10% concentration may be unnecessary — published studies demonstrate efficacy at 2-5%, and higher concentrations increase the risk of prostaglandin-mediated flushing without proportionally better results. For patients who experience flushing, dermatologists commonly suggest diluting with moisturizer or switching to a 5% formulation.

Guidance

How to Use

Apply 2-3 drops to clean face morning and evening, before moisturizer. Less is more — using too much increases stickiness and pilling risk. Allow to absorb for 60 seconds before layering other products. Do not combine with direct vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) in the same routine. Can be mixed with moisturizer to dilute to approximately 5% if the 10% concentration causes flushing. Works well layered under retinoids, SPF, and ceramide moisturizers.

Value Assessment

At $6 for 30ml — or proportionally less in the 60ml size — this product represents perhaps the most extreme value proposition in all of skincare. The per-use cost at twice-daily application is approximately three to four cents. No other product in The Ordinary's lineup (or arguably any lineup) offers a clinically validated active at a working concentration for less. The 60ml bottle, lasting six to eight months, makes the annual cost of twice-daily niacinamide supplementation roughly $12-18 per year. The value isn't just good — it's the reason this product exists as a category benchmark.

Who Should Buy

Anyone with oily, combination, or acne-prone skin looking for an affordable way to control shine, minimize pores, brighten tone, and reduce breakouts. Also excellent for those dealing with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The ultimate entry-level serum for people discovering active skincare.

Who Should Skip

Dry skin types will find this too mattifying and potentially dehydrating. Sensitive skin or rosacea-prone individuals may react to the 10% concentration with persistent flushing or irritation. Anyone who has tried and reacted poorly to niacinamide at lower concentrations should avoid this. If texture and cosmetic elegance are priorities, the sticky finish may be a dealbreaker.

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Details

Texture

Lightweight, slightly viscous water-based serum with a faintly tacky finish — not quite as elegantly absorbing as some serums, with occasional stickiness

Scent

Essentially unscented — no detectable fragrance

Packaging

Frosted glass dropper bottle with white pipette cap — now available in a 60ml size for better long-term value

Finish

mattenon-greasylightweight

What to Expect on First Use

Most users notice reduced oiliness and shine within the first few applications. Some experience temporary flushing — a warm, slightly red sensation — especially during the first week. This is a known niacinamide effect at 10% and typically subsides as skin acclimates. A small percentage of users experience purging or increased breakouts during weeks 1-2, which should resolve within a month. If flushing or irritation persists, reduce to once daily or mix with moisturizer to dilute.

How Long It Lasts

3-4 months with twice-daily use (30ml); 6-8 months with the 60ml

Period After Opening

12 months

Best Season

All Year

Certifications

VeganCruelty-Free

Background

This was the product that made The Ordinary a global phenomenon. When it launched in 2016, niacinamide serums at 10% cost $30-60 from other brands. The Ordinary priced it at $5.90 and the internet lost its collective mind. It became the brand's single bestselling product, the gateway drug into The Ordinary's range, and the proof point for their entire business model: well-studied actives at transparent concentrations for prices that made the industry's margins uncomfortably visible. It remains one of the most-reviewed skincare products on the internet.

About The Ordinary Established Brand (5–20 years)

The Ordinary launched in 2016 under parent company DECIEM and quickly became one of the most recognized names in affordable, ingredient-focused skincare. While the brand lacks proprietary clinical trials on its specific formulations, it builds products around well-studied actives at transparent concentrations, earning widespread dermatologist acknowledgment.

Brand founded: 2016 · Product launched: 2016

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

You can't use niacinamide with vitamin C — they cancel each other out.

Reality

This is a persistent myth based on outdated research from the 1960s that used extreme conditions (high heat, low pH) not present in skincare. However, The Ordinary themselves advise against combining their Niacinamide serum with direct vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) in the same routine, as the combination can cause flushing and may reduce vitamin C stability. Using them at different times of day is the practical solution.

Myth

If niacinamide causes flushing, you're allergic to it.

Reality

Niacin-related flushing at high concentrations is a well-documented pharmacological response — it's caused by prostaglandin release, not an allergic reaction. At 10%, some users experience temporary warmth and redness. This typically resolves within 20-30 minutes and diminishes with continued use. True niacinamide allergies exist but are extremely rare.

FAQ

Common Praise

"Dramatically reduces excess oil and shine with consistent daily use"

"Visible improvement in pore appearance within weeks"

"Incredible value at $6 for a 10% niacinamide serum"

"Helps reduce breakout frequency and severity over time"

"Brightens dull, uneven skin tone noticeably within a month"

Common Complaints

"Can cause irritation, flushing, or breakouts in some users — especially at 10%"

"Slightly sticky or tacky texture that some find unpleasant under makeup"

"May pill when layered with certain moisturizers or sunscreens"

"Too drying or mattifying for dry skin types"

"Some users experience an initial purging or breakout period"

Notable Endorsements

One of the bestselling skincare serums globallyUniversally recommended in skincare communities as a starting point for niacinamideFrequently cited by dermatologists as an affordable niacinamide option

Appears In

best serum for oiliness best serum for large pores best budget niacinamide serum best serum for acne best serum for dullness

Related Conditions

oiliness large pores acne dullness hyperpigmentation texture blackheads

Related Ingredients

niacinamide vitamin b3 zinc