Keracnyl PP+ Anti-Blemish Cream

When Pierre Fabre's research team set out to upgrade the original Keracnyl PP cream in the early 2020s, they had a specific patient profile in mind. The original PP variant had been on French pharmacy shelves since 2013 as a gentle, niacinamide-and-Myrtacine-based companion cream for acne-prone skin — the kind of product you reach for when you need barrier support alongside your adapalene without compounding the irritation. It was reliable and well-tolerated, and dermatologists liked it. But it had a clear ceiling. For patients with more active inflammatory acne — the kind where lesions appeared faster than they cleared, where post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation was building up faster than the niacinamide could fade it, where the gentle PP version simply wasn't doing enough — there was a gap between Keracnyl PP and a prescription-grade product. PP+ is what Pierre Fabre built to fill that gap, and it launched in 2021 as the more aggressive sibling to the original.

What PP+ adds is two specific actives that distinguish it from the original. The first is Tripterygium wilfordii root extract — the same celastrol-containing botanical that anchors Ductray's Dexyane MeD line for atopic dermatitis. Celastrol has a growing body of dermatological research showing it modulates inflammatory cascades involved in skin conditions ranging from eczema to acne. In this acne-focused context, it gives PP+ noticeably more anti-inflammatory punch than the niacinamide-and-Myrtacine combination of the original PP could provide on its own. The second addition is phytic acid, a plant-derived chelator with mild keratolytic and anti-tyrosinase activity. It's much gentler than glycolic or salicylic acid — important because the patient using this cream is probably also using a stronger acne active that's already producing irritation — but it adds a brightening and gentle exfoliating layer that targets post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation alongside the active acne. Combined with the existing niacinamide (around 4%), Myrtacine, and zinc PCA, this creates a four-mechanism approach: niacinamide for sebum and inflammation, celastrol for deeper inflammation modulation, Myrtacine for bacterial biofilm disruption, and phytic acid for surface exfoliation and pigment fading.

That's a lot to put in one cream, and the natural concern is whether layering all those mechanisms ends up producing irritation. In practice, the formulation is still well-tolerated. The vehicle is fragrance-free, alcohol-free, oil-free, and the actives are all chosen for their relatively low irritation profiles relative to their effect. The texture is a smooth, lightweight cream with a slight gel-like slip that absorbs within forty-five seconds and leaves a matte finish. It layers cleanly under sunscreen and oil-free makeup. Most users report no stinging on intact skin, though a small number notice mild tingling on actively inflamed lesions in the first few days as the celastrol takes effect — usually settling within a week.

In use, the difference between PP+ and the original PP is genuinely noticeable. Where the original PP is a quiet, supportive cream that you might struggle to attribute specific results to, PP+ produces visible reduction in inflammatory blemishes within seven to fourteen days of consistent twice-daily use, and visible improvement in post-inflammatory marks over four to eight weeks. That's not a transformational result — it's not going to clear severe nodulocystic acne — but it's enough that patients who'd been on the original PP for months and felt stuck often report meaningful improvement after switching to PP+. For mild-to-moderate inflammatory acne, particularly in adult patients with the overlap of acne and post-inflammatory pigmentation that's so common in the late-twenties-to-thirties demographic, PP+ is one of the most effective non-prescription options on the European pharmacy market.

The limitations are real but specific. The 30 ml tube is small and runs out in six to eight weeks with twice-daily full-face use. There's no larger size option. The Tripterygium wilfordii extract means PP+ is not a default pregnancy-safe option — Ductray advises pregnant and breastfeeding users consult a doctor before use, which is a meaningful asterisk for the demographic most likely to be dealing with hormonal adult acne. US availability is still limited, though Ductray's distribution has been expanding. And like the original PP, it's not a standalone treatment for severe or cystic acne; for those cases, a dermatologist visit and prescription treatment is still the right starting point.

The broader credibility argument for PP+ is the same as for the rest of Ductray's line: nearly a century of pharmacy-grade dermatology development under the Pierre Fabre umbrella, with the published research infrastructure to back the claims on the tube. The Myrtacine extract has been in the Keracnyl line for over a decade with a track record. The celastrol component is the same patented active Pierre Fabre uses in Dexyane MeD, with the same regulatory and tolerance data backing it. You're not buying a startup's first attempt at an acne cream — you're buying into a multi-decade formulation tradition that's been refined through European pharmacy distribution and dermatologist feedback.

For the right patient, PP+ is one of the most comprehensive non-prescription acne creams on the market. It's particularly well-suited to adult acne with hyperpigmentation, to patients who've outgrown the gentle PP variant, and to anyone looking for serious anti-inflammatory action without resorting to a prescription. For patients who need a steroid-sparing option, it's also worth considering. Just go in knowing what it is and what it isn't.

Formula

The hero actives that drive this product's performance.

Ingredient	Function	Evidence
Niacinamide (4%)	Sits at a meaningful concentration in this PP+ formulation, where it does sebum regulation, inflammation calming, and barrier support all at once. Pairing it with the celastrol-containing Tripterygium extract here gives the cream both an immediate anti-inflammatory hit and longer-term sebum control — a layered approach that distinguishes PP+ from the gentler PP version.	well-established
Myrtacine (Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract)	Pierre Fabre's patented myrtle leaf extract with documented anti-biofilm activity against C. acnes. In this PP+ formula, it's the antibacterial-without-irritation backbone, complementing the celastrol's anti-inflammatory work by attacking the bacterial side of the acne equation.	promising
Tripterygium Wilfordii Root Extract (Celastrol)	The signature upgrade in the PP+ formulation versus the original PP. Celastrol from Tripterygium wilfordii is a botanical anti-inflammatory with research showing it modulates the inflammatory cascade involved in acne lesion formation. Its inclusion is what gives PP+ noticeably more anti-inflammatory punch than the original PP cream without resorting to harsh exfoliating acids.	promising
Phytic Acid	A gentle plant-derived chelator with mild keratolytic and anti-tyrosinase effects. In this acne-focused formula it helps reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation while contributing very mild surface exfoliation — much gentler than a glycolic or salicylic acid would be, and chosen specifically because it doesn't compound the irritation of the user's primary acne actives.	promising
Zinc PCA	Adds sebum-regulating and mild anti-inflammatory activity to the formula, working in tandem with the niacinamide. Zinc-PCA pairings are common in oily-skin acne formulations because the two ingredients reinforce each other's mechanisms without adding irritation.	well-established

Full INCI List · pH 5

Aqua, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Phytic Acid, Tripterygium Wilfordii Root Extract, Zinc PCA, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA

Product Flags

✓ Fragrance Free✓ Alcohol Free✓ Oil Free✗ Silicone Free✓ Paraben Free✓ Sulfate Free✗ Cruelty Free✓ Vegan✓ Fungal Acne Safe

Potential Irritants

phenoxyethanolphytic-acid

Common Allergens

cetearyl-alcohol

Compatibility

Best For

oily combination normal

Works For

sensitive

Not Ideal For

dry

Addresses These Conditions

acne oiliness blackheads hyperpigmentation post procedure

Routine Step

treatment

Time of Day

AM & PM

Pregnancy Safe

Unknown

Layering Tips

Apply after cleansing and before any oil-free moisturizer or sunscreen. Can be used alongside benzoyl peroxide and adapalene with a buffering pause between layers.

Results Timeline

Calming and reduction in redness within minutes of first application. Visible reduction in inflammatory blemishes within 7-14 days of consistent twice-daily use. Improvement in post-inflammatory marks and overall texture over 4-8 weeks.

Pairs Well With

adapalenebenzoyl-peroxideretinoidsazelaic-acid

Sample AM Routine

1. Gentle cleanser
2. Ducray Keracnyl PP+ Anti-Blemish Cream
3. Lightweight oil-free sunscreen

Sample PM Routine

1. Gentle cleanser
2. Adapalene or BPO
3. Ducray Keracnyl PP+ Anti-Blemish Cream

Evidence

The Science

PP+ draws on three distinct evidence bases. The first is the well-established niacinamide literature for acne-prone skin. Published clinical trials in journals including the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology have shown that topical niacinamide at 4-5% reduces sebum excretion, calms inflammatory acne lesions, and supports barrier function over 4-12 week application periods, with comparable efficacy to topical clindamycin in some patient populations and substantially better tolerability.

The second is the Myrtacine evidence base. Pierre Fabre's published work characterizing Myrtus communis leaf extract has demonstrated anti-biofilm activity against C. acnes, which is mechanistically interesting because the biofilm protects acne-associated bacteria from both host immune responses and topical anti-bacterials. Disrupting the biofilm makes the bacteria more susceptible to other interventions, potentially enabling lower effective doses of harsher actives like benzoyl peroxide.

The third — and the addition that distinguishes PP+ from the original PP — is the celastrol literature. Published work in journals including Phytomedicine and the Journal of Ethnopharmacology has characterized celastrol from Tripterygium wilfordii as a multi-target anti-inflammatory compound that modulates NF-kB signaling and reduces pro-inflammatory cytokine production. Its application in acne is more recent than its better-known role in atopic and inflammatory skin conditions, but the mechanism translates: acne is fundamentally an inflammatory process triggered by sebum and bacteria, and an additional anti-inflammatory pathway should compound the niacinamide's effect.

Phytic acid contributes a fourth mechanism through mild keratolysis and tyrosinase inhibition. Its evidence base for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is supported by published comparison studies showing meaningful pigment reduction over 8-12 week windows at gentle, low-irritation concentrations. The strategic point of the PP+ formula is that none of these four mechanisms overlap with what a primary acne active (retinoid, benzoyl peroxide) would already be doing — meaning PP+ adds new anti-acne effects to the routine without adding new irritation pathways.

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists treating adult acne increasingly recommend layered, multi-mechanism regimens rather than single-active approaches. Board-certified dermatologists familiar with the Keracnyl line typically position PP+ as the more active option for patients who've found the original PP insufficient, particularly for adult acne with significant post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It's commonly recommended as a daily companion to prescription adapalene or tretinoin courses, and as a steroid-sparing option for patients who want to reduce their reliance on prescription topicals. Dermatologists generally note that the celastrol content makes it inappropriate as a pregnancy default, and direct pregnant patients to the original PP version instead. The fungal-acne safety is also frequently flagged as a benefit, since the overlap of acne and Malassezia folliculitis is more common than many patients realize.

Guidance

How to Use

Apply a pea-sized amount to clean skin twice daily as the treatment layer in an acne routine. In the morning, follow with an oil-free moisturizer if needed and lightweight sunscreen. In the evening, apply after your primary acne active (adapalene, tretinoin, benzoyl peroxide) on dry skin — wait one to two minutes before layering PP+ on top. Avoid pregnancy use without medical guidance due to the Tripterygium content. Continue use for at least 8-12 weeks before evaluating effect on post-inflammatory pigmentation. Pair with daily SPF for best results on hyperpigmentation.

Value Assessment

At around $25 for 30 ml, PP+ is priced slightly higher than the original PP cream and reflects the more active formulation. The per-ounce price is on the higher side for a non-prescription acne cream, justified by the Myrtacine and celastrol content. Compared to luxury acne lines charging $50-80 for less differentiated formulations, it's a strong value. Compared to a basic drugstore niacinamide cream at $15, it's a meaningful premium for the additional actives and the brand's clinical track record. The small tube size is the main per-unit value concern — heavy users will burn through it faster than they'd want.

Who Should Buy

Adult patients with mild-to-moderate inflammatory acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, users who've outgrown the gentle Keracnyl PP variant, and patients on prescription retinoids who want a more active companion cream than basic niacinamide. Especially good for the late-twenties-to-thirties demographic dealing with hormonal adult acne.

Who Should Skip

Pregnant and breastfeeding users (without medical guidance), patients with very dry skin alongside acne who need a richer moisturizer, and people with severe nodulocystic acne who need prescription treatment. Also skip if you prefer fragrance and a more sensorial cream experience.

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Details

Texture

Smooth, lightweight white cream with a slight gel-like slip — absorbs in about 45 seconds leaving a matte finish

Scent

None

Packaging

White squeeze tube with flip cap, 30 ml

Finish

lightweightmattefast-absorbing

What to Expect on First Use

Expect immediate calming with no stinging on intact skin. A small number of users report mild tingling on broken or actively inflamed lesions as the celastrol takes effect, which typically resolves within a few applications. Visible reduction in redness within the first few days.

How Long It Lasts

2-3 months with twice-daily use over the full face

Period After Opening

6 months

Best Season

All Year

Background

Keracnyl PP+ launched in 2021 as Pierre Fabre's upgrade to the long-running PP variant. The brief was specific: take the well-established PP base — niacinamide, Myrtacine, zinc — and layer in celastrol and phytic acid to give patients with active inflammatory acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation a more aggressive non-prescription option. The PP+ was designed to bridge the gap between the gentle daily-use PP cream and prescription acne treatments.

About Ducray Legacy Brand (20+ years)

Ducray, founded in 1930 and part of Pierre Fabre, has nearly a century of dermatological research behind its formulations. The Keracnyl line is its long-running acne-prone-skin platform, and the PP+ variant is the 2021 upgrade developed around Pierre Fabre's patented Celastrol anti-inflammatory active alongside the brand's signature Myrtacine.

Brand founded: 1930 · Product launched: 2021

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

Phytic acid is just another harsh exfoliating acid that will dry out your skin.

Reality

Phytic acid is one of the gentlest plant-derived acids, with mild chelating and tyrosinase-inhibiting effects rather than strong keratolysis. At the concentrations used in pharmacy creams, it produces brightening and post-inflammatory pigment improvement without the dryness associated with glycolic or salicylic acids.

FAQ

Common Praise

"more visible effect than the original PP version"

"reduces post-acne marks over time"

"calms inflammatory blemishes within days"

"layers well with prescription actives"

Common Complaints

"not yet widely available in US"

"small 30 ml tube"

"celastrol inclusion makes pregnancy use uncertain"

"price slightly higher than original PP"

Notable Endorsements

French pharmacy adapalene companionrecommended in European acne protocols

Appears In

best non prescription acne creams best acne creams for post marks best french pharmacy acne products best ducray products best celastrol skincare

Related Conditions

acne oiliness blackheads hyperpigmentation post procedure

Related Ingredients

niacinamide myrtle extract celastrol phytic acid zinc