The moisturizer equivalent of a standing ovation — not for doing something revolutionary, but for doing one thing so well and so consistently that it earned a place in a museum. A near-universally tolerated, fragrance-free daily cream that delivers lasting hydration through a smartly designed squalane and glycerin system.
Ultra Facial Cream
The moisturizer equivalent of a standing ovation — not for doing something revolutionary, but for doing one thing so well and so consistently that it earned a place in a museum. A near-universally tolerated, fragrance-free daily cream that delivers lasting hydration through a smartly designed squalane and glycerin system.
Score Breakdown
A brilliantly simple moisturizer that achieves exceptional hydration through a well-designed squalane and glycerin system. Fragrance-free, paraben-free, and suitable for nearly every skin type, it loses points only on ingredient sophistication — this is hydration-focused rather than treatment-grade.
Data Confidence: high
This score is based on nearly two decades of market history, over 12,000 user reviews across major retailers, and the product's recognition in the Smithsonian Museum collection. The formula was reformulated in 2019 to remove parabens and updated with the current squalane-forward formulation.
0/100
Overall Score
Ingredient Quality 0
Value for Money 0
Suitability Breadth 0
Irritation Risk (↑ = safer) 0
Assessment
Pros
- 4.5% squalane concentration provides genuine, lasting barrier reinforcement
- Fragrance-free and paraben-free with near-universal skin type tolerance
- Lightweight texture absorbs in seconds and layers flawlessly under SPF and makeup
- Pro-ceramide inclusion supports the skin's own barrier repair mechanisms
- Glacial glycoprotein offers unique environmental stress protection
- Over 12,000 reviews and Smithsonian recognition attest to real-world reliability
- Available in multiple sizes including a refillable jar option
Cons
- Jar packaging exposes product to air and potential contamination
- May be too rich for very oily skin types in warm, humid climates
- No anti-aging, brightening, or treatment actives beyond basic hydration
- Price has increased over the years, reducing its value-for-money appeal
- Myristyl myristate may be comedogenic for breakout-prone skin
Full Review
There is a particular kind of immortality reserved for objects that become so embedded in daily life that they transcend their original category. The white porcelain mug. The moleskine notebook. The Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream. That last one might sound like a stretch, but this cream literally sits in the Smithsonian Museum's collection alongside artifacts deemed culturally significant enough to preserve for future generations. Not bad for something you rub on your face before breakfast.
The Ultra Facial Cream's journey to museum-worthy status began in the early 1970s, when the Ultra Facial Moisturizer first appeared on the shelves of Kiehl's original Third Avenue pharmacy. The cream iteration followed decades later and quickly became the brand's bestseller — a position it has held with remarkable consistency. The current formula, reformulated in 2019 to remove parabens and recentered around a 4.5% squalane concentration, represents the latest evolution of a product that has been quietly perfected over half a century.
What makes this cream exceptional isn't any single breakthrough ingredient — it's the disciplined simplicity of the approach. While the skincare industry races to pack formulas with the latest trending actives, Kiehl's built this cream around the most fundamental question in moisturizer design: how do you get water into skin and keep it there? The answer, executed with almost textbook precision, is a three-layer hydration system.
Layer one: glycerin, the workhorse humectant, pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the stratum corneum. Layer two: squalane at 4.5%, a concentration meaningful enough to list on the front of the jar, reinforces the lipid barrier to prevent that moisture from escaping. Layer three: dimethicone creates a breathable silicone film that adds an additional seal without the heavy, suffocating quality of traditional occlusives like petrolatum. The result is hydration that actually lasts — Kiehl's claims 72 hours, which in clinical testing translates to measurably elevated skin moisture levels three days after a single application.
Then there's the glacial glycoprotein, which sounds like something from a science fiction novel but is actually Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, derived from bacteria that survive in Antarctic sea ice by producing antifreeze-like proteins. It's a characteristically Kiehl's ingredient — unusual provenance, genuine functional purpose, and just interesting enough to make you feel like you're using something thoughtfully formulated without being gimmicky.
The pro-ceramide inclusion (Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine) adds a barrier-repair dimension that elevates this beyond simple hydration. Rather than just applying ceramides to the skin surface, this precursor encourages the skin to produce its own ceramides, providing longer-lasting structural support to the moisture barrier. It's a subtle but meaningful distinction that separates this from simpler glycerin-and-silicone moisturizers.
The texture is one of the cream's genuine pleasures — rich enough to feel substantial but lightweight enough to absorb within seconds. It has the quality of melting into skin rather than sitting on top of it, and it leaves behind a satin-to-dewy finish that works equally well under a full face of makeup or on bare skin. There's no pilling, no interference with SPF, no white cast, no residual stickiness. It simply disappears and starts working.
And the fact that it does all this while remaining completely fragrance-free deserves recognition. Many brands treat fragrance-free formulas as the spartan alternative — functional but joyless. Kiehl's manages to make the Ultra Facial Cream feel luxurious and pleasant to use without any scent manipulation. The application experience is reward enough.
The near-universal tolerability of this cream is perhaps its most remarkable achievement. Browse through its 12,000+ reviews and you'll find teenagers using it alongside their acne treatments, retirees using it as their sole moisturizer, retinol users buffering with it, and people with eczema applying it to calm flares. Very few products can credibly claim to work across such a wide demographic and dermatological spectrum.
Where the Ultra Facial Cream may underwhelm is in the expectations department. If you're looking for anti-aging actives, brightening agents, or targeted treatments, this cream doesn't pretend to offer them. It's a moisturizer — not a serum in disguise, not a treatment masquerading as a cream. Those who want their moisturizer to multi-task beyond hydration and barrier support will need to look elsewhere or add those actives as separate steps.
The jar packaging remains the perennial complaint, and it's a fair one. A pump or airless container would better protect the formula and improve hygiene. Kiehl's has introduced a refillable jar option, which is a step in the sustainable direction, but doesn't address the air-exposure concern. At this point, the jar is as iconic as the cream itself — for better or worse.
Pricing has crept up over the years, and at $39 for 1.7 ounces, it's no longer the accessible everyday moisturizer it once was. The 4.2-ounce size at $70 offers considerably better per-ounce value and is the recommended purchase for committed users. Even at the higher price, it remains significantly less expensive than luxury moisturizers that deliver comparable or lesser hydration performance.
The Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream earned its museum placement not by being revolutionary, but by being right. Right ingredients, right balance, right philosophy. In a market that constantly reinvents the wheel, sometimes the best product is the one that simply rolls forward, steadily and reliably, year after year.
Formula
Ingredients
The hero actives that drive this product's performance.
| Ingredient | Function | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Squalane (4.5%) (4.5%) | The headline ingredient at a meaningful 4.5% concentration, squalane is a lightweight emollient that mimics the skin's own sebum. In this formula, it anchors the hydration system by reinforcing the moisture barrier without occluding pores, enabling the cream's claim of 72-hour hydration by preventing transepidermal water loss. | well-established |
| Glycerin | Listed second after water, glycerin is the primary humectant pulling moisture into the upper skin layers. It works in tandem with squalane — glycerin draws water in, squalane seals it there — creating the sustained hydration effect that defines this cream's performance. | well-established |
| Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract (Glacial Glycoprotein) | Kiehl's signature ingredient derived from Antarctic sea bacteria that produces antifreeze-like glycoproteins. In this moisturizer, it provides an additional protective layer against environmental stress and helps maintain hydration under harsh conditions — a functional nod to the cream's promise of all-weather reliability. | emerging |
| Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine (Pro-Ceramide) | A ceramide precursor that supports the skin's natural lipid barrier by integrating into the intercellular matrix of the stratum corneum. It complements the squalane's barrier-reinforcing action by working at a deeper structural level, helping skin produce its own ceramides rather than relying solely on externally applied lipids. | well-established |
| Dimethicone | Serves as a silicone-based occlusive that creates a breathable film over the skin, locking in the hydration delivered by glycerin and squalane. It's also responsible for the cream's signature smooth, non-greasy finish that makes it layer well under makeup and sunscreen. | well-established |
Full INCI List
Aqua/Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Squalane, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Sucrose Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, PEG-8 Stearate, Myristyl Myristate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Persea Gratissima Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Chlorphenesin, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Myristic Acid, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Salicylic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citric Acid
Product Flags
✓ Fragrance Free✓ Alcohol Free✗ Oil Free✗ Silicone Free✓ Paraben Free✓ Sulfate Free✗ Cruelty Free✗ Vegan✗ Fungal Acne Safe
Comedogenic Ingredients
Myristyl MyristateCetyl Alcohol
Compatibility
Skin Match
Best For
Works For
Not Ideal For
Addresses These Conditions
dryness dehydration winter skin compromised skin barrier
Use With Caution
Avoid With
Routine Step
moisturizer
Time of Day
AM & PM
Pregnancy Safe
Yes ✓
Layering Tips
Apply after serums and before sunscreen in the morning. Works well over active treatments like retinol or vitamin C. For very dry skin, can be layered over a hyaluronic acid serum for extra hydration. A pea-sized amount is sufficient for the full face.
Results Timeline
Immediate hydration and softness from the first application. Skin barrier strengthening becomes noticeable within 1-2 weeks of consistent use. Full benefits — sustained 72-hour hydration and reduced dryness — typically apparent after 3-4 weeks of daily use.
Pairs Well With
Hyaluronic acid serumRetinol serumVitamin C serumKiehl's Ultra Facial Cleanser
Sample AM Routine
- Gentle cleanser
- Hyaluronic acid serum
- Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream
- SPF 50 sunscreen
Sample PM Routine
- Double cleanse
- Treatment serum
- Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream
Evidence
Science
The Science
The formulation is built around a layered hydration strategy supported by well-established dermatological science. Squalane, present at a declared 4.5%, is a hydrogenated form of squalene — a natural component of human sebum that constitutes approximately 12% of skin surface lipids. Research published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2009) demonstrated that topical squalane application improves skin barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), confirming its role as more than a simple emollient.
Glycerin, the formula's primary humectant, has one of the most robust evidence bases of any skincare ingredient. A comprehensive review in the British Journal of Dermatology established that glycerin penetrates the stratum corneum, attracts water molecules, and improves skin hydration both acutely and with sustained use. Its interaction with squalane creates a complementary system: glycerin pulls moisture in while squalane prevents its escape.
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, the pro-ceramide component, belongs to the sphingoid base family — precursors to ceramides that are essential structural components of the skin barrier. Studies have shown that sphingoid bases stimulate endogenous ceramide synthesis, potentially providing more durable barrier repair than exogenously applied ceramides. This ingredient addresses the structural lipid layer of the stratum corneum, complementing squalane's action on the sebaceous lipid layer.
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract (glacial glycoprotein) is derived from extremophile bacteria that produce antifreeze glycoproteins (AFGPs) to survive sub-zero Antarctic temperatures. While the skincare-specific clinical evidence for this ingredient is more limited than the other actives, the glycoprotein's water-binding and cryoprotective properties have a plausible mechanism for enhancing skin hydration and environmental protection.
Dermatologist Perspective
Dermatologists regard the Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream as one of the most broadly recommendable moisturizers available. Board-certified dermatologists frequently suggest it for patients across the skin type spectrum — from post-procedure recovery to daily maintenance for sensitive skin. Its fragrance-free, paraben-free formulation with a meaningful squalane concentration and pro-ceramide support aligns with current dermatological best practices for barrier repair. Dermatologists particularly value its versatility as a vehicle for active ingredients — it pairs well with retinoids, vitamin C, and chemical exfoliants without interfering with their efficacy or causing additional irritation.
Guidance
Usage Guide
How to Use
Apply a pea-sized amount to clean skin morning and evening, after serums and treatments. Warm between fingertips and press into the face and neck, using gentle upward motions. Allow 1-2 minutes to absorb before applying sunscreen (AM). Can be layered over active treatments like retinol or vitamin C. For extra-dry areas, apply a slightly thicker layer. In very cold or dry environments, consider layering over a hyaluronic acid serum for additional moisture.
Value Assessment
At $39 for 1.7 oz, the Ultra Facial Cream has moved into mid-premium territory — a far cry from the accessible pricing that originally helped make it a cult favorite. The 4.2 oz size at $70 offers meaningfully better per-ounce economics and is the smarter buy for anyone who has already confirmed the product works for their skin. Kiehl's heritage and the formula's genuine performance — 4.5% squalane, pro-ceramide, glacial glycoprotein — justify a premium over basic drugstore moisturizers. The refillable jar option provides a modest discount on refills, which helps offset the price increase for long-term users.
Who Should Buy
Anyone seeking a reliable, unfussy daily moisturizer that delivers consistent hydration across seasons and skin conditions. It's particularly ideal for sensitive skin types who struggle to find fragrance-free options that feel luxurious, retinol users looking for a barrier-supportive buffer cream, and anyone who simply wants a moisturizer they never have to think about — the set-it-and-forget-it of skincare.
Who Should Skip
Very oily or acne-prone skin types may find the rich texture and myristyl myristate content too heavy, particularly in warm weather. Those looking for targeted anti-aging, brightening, or treatment benefits should add those as separate serum steps rather than expecting them from this cream. Budget-conscious shoppers can find comparable hydration from drugstore alternatives at a lower price point.
Ready to try Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream?
Details
Details
Texture
Lightweight yet rich cream with a smooth, almost whipped consistency. Melts into skin on contact and absorbs within seconds, leaving a soft, dewy-to-satin finish without any greasy residue.
Scent
Fragrance-free. No detectable scent beyond a faint, neutral product smell.
Packaging
Classic white jar with a screw-top lid in multiple sizes (0.95 oz, 1.7 oz, 4.2 oz, plus a refillable option). The jar format is Kiehl's signature presentation, though it exposes product to air with each use.
Finish
satindewynon-greasylightweight
What to Expect on First Use
From the very first application, skin feels immediately softer and more comfortable. There's no tingling, no adjustment period — just straightforward hydration. The cream disappears into the skin so quickly that you might doubt it's doing anything, but the lasting softness confirms it's working. Even in the first week, dry patches and tightness diminish noticeably.
How Long It Lasts
2-3 months with twice-daily face application
Period After Opening
12 months
Best Season
All Year
Background
The Why
The Ultra Facial line originated in the early 1970s with the Ultra Facial Moisturizer, making it one of Kiehl's oldest and most iconic product families. The cream version became so beloved that it was inducted into the Smithsonian Museum's collection as a culturally significant consumer product. Reformulated in 2019 to remove parabens and updated with a squalane-forward formula, it has maintained its position as Kiehl's number one seller for over a decade.
About Kiehl's Legacy Brand (20+ years)
Kiehl's was founded in 1851 as a New York City apothecary and has been formulating skincare for over 170 years. Acquired by L'Oréal in 2000, the brand launched its Dermatologist Solutions line in 2005. The Ultra Facial line traces its roots to the early 1970s and has become the brand's most recognized collection, with the Ultra Facial Cream earning a place in the Smithsonian Museum's collection.
Brand founded: 1851 · Product launched: 2006
Myth vs. Reality
Myths
Myth
A simple moisturizer can't provide 72-hour hydration — that's just marketing.
Reality
The 72-hour claim refers to measurable hydration improvements in clinical testing, not that you should only moisturize every three days. The squalane-glycerin system creates a sustained hydration reservoir by both drawing in moisture (glycerin) and preventing its escape (squalane, dimethicone). Your skin benefits from this extended hydration even as you continue your normal routine.
Myth
This cream is too basic to be worth the price — it's just glycerin and squalane.
Reality
The formulation includes glacial glycoprotein (Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract) and a pro-ceramide (Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine) alongside a carefully balanced multi-oil system. The simplicity is intentional — every ingredient serves the hydration mission, and the formula's near-universal tolerability is itself an achievement that more complex products often fail to match.
FAQ
FAQ
Is Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream worth the price?
At $39 for 1.7 oz, it's a mid-range investment, but the 4.2 oz size at $70 offers significantly better per-ounce value. The formula's 4.5% squalane, glacial glycoprotein, and pro-ceramide system delivers genuine barrier support that most cheaper moisturizers can't match. With a 2-3 month lifespan at twice-daily use, the 1.7 oz size costs roughly $13-20 per month.
Can I use Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream on sensitive skin?
Yes — this is one of the most sensitive-skin-friendly moisturizers on the market. It's fragrance-free, paraben-free, and formulated without common irritants. The squalane and pro-ceramide combination actively supports barrier repair, making it suitable even for reactive skin. It's widely recommended by dermatologists for sensitive skin patients.
Is Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream good for oily skin?
It can work for combination skin types, but those with very oily skin may find it too rich, especially in humid weather. Kiehl's offers the Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream as a lighter alternative specifically designed for oily and acne-prone skin while maintaining the Ultra Facial line's hydration philosophy.
What is glacial glycoprotein in Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream?
Listed as Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, it's derived from bacteria found in Antarctic sea ice that naturally produces antifreeze-like glycoproteins to survive extreme cold. In skincare, this extract provides an additional protective layer against environmental stress and helps maintain hydration under harsh conditions — which is why this cream performs well even in extreme weather.
Can I use Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream with retinol?
Absolutely — its barrier-supportive formula with squalane and pro-ceramides makes it an excellent companion for retinol. Apply retinol first, let it absorb for a few minutes, then layer this cream on top. The occlusive properties help seal in the retinol while the barrier-repairing ingredients mitigate potential irritation.
Why is Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream in the Smithsonian?
The Ultra Facial Cream was inducted into the Smithsonian Museum's collection as a culturally significant consumer product. Its inclusion reflects the product's impact on American skincare culture and its status as one of the most universally adopted moisturizers across demographics, skin types, and generations.
Community
Community
Common Praise
"Provides lasting hydration without feeling heavy or greasy"
"Works well for virtually all skin types including sensitive"
"Fragrance-free and doesn't irritate reactive skin"
"Absorbs quickly and layers beautifully under makeup and sunscreen"
Common Complaints
"Jar packaging is less hygienic than a pump or tube"
"May be too rich for very oily skin in humid climates"
"Simple formula may feel underpowered for those wanting anti-aging actives"
"Price has increased over the years"
Notable Endorsements
Smithsonian Museum collectionKiehl's #1 best-selling face creamWidely recommended by dermatologists
Appears In
best moisturizer for dry skin best moisturizer for all skin types best fragrance free moisturizer best squalane moisturizer best winter moisturizer
Related Conditions
dryness dehydration winter skin compromised skin barrier sensitivity
Related Ingredients
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