Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%

Susan Yara spent years in front of a camera dissecting skincare ingredient lists and calling out products that promised more than their formulas could deliver. When she launched Naturium in 2019, the bet was that a beauty journalist's skepticism could produce better products than a marketing department's optimism. The Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée is the most convincing evidence for that thesis.

The ingredient list is remarkably short for a cleanser that actually does something — fifteen ingredients total, each with a clear purpose. The surfactant system is built on disodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, both amino acid-based cleansers that are about as gentle as surfactants get. Decyl glucoside provides the plant-derived foaming action. There are no sulfates, no silicones, no fragrance, no oils. If you printed this INCI list on a card, a dermatologist would nod approvingly and move on.

The 3% niacinamide is the reason this isn't just another gentle cleanser. Niacinamide at concentrations between 2-5% has been shown in multiple clinical studies to regulate sebum production, reduce inflammation, and improve skin tone. The counterargument is that a rinse-off product doesn't provide enough contact time for actives to work — and that's partially valid. You won't get the same niacinamide delivery from a 60-second wash as from a leave-on serum. But clinical data on niacinamide-containing cleansers does show measurable improvements in oil control and skin balance with regular use. The 3% concentration provides enough active to make the brief contact window count, especially when used twice daily.

The supporting ingredients are chosen with the same restraint. Sodium hyaluronate and glycerin provide the hydration counterbalance that prevents the tight, stripped feeling most cleansers leave behind. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate — a stable vitamin C derivative that actually makes sense in an aqueous, rinse-off formula where pure ascorbic acid would degrade instantly — adds antioxidant support. Myrciaria dubia (camu camu) fruit extract contributes additional vitamin C from a natural source. Tocopherol provides vitamin E. Every ingredient has a job.

The texture experience is where this cleanser wins over people who try it once. The gelée format is silky and almost essence-like, transforming into a soft, barely-there lather when water is introduced. It doesn't foam aggressively, it doesn't tug, and it rinses completely clean without leaving any film. The first time you use it, you might wonder whether it actually cleaned anything because your skin doesn't feel that familiar tight, squeaky sensation. That's the point — that tightness is your barrier screaming, and this cleanser doesn't provoke it.

For oily and combination skin types, this is close to ideal. The mild lather removes excess sebum and daily grime without triggering the rebound oil production that harsher cleansers cause. The niacinamide's sebum-regulating properties add a treatment dimension to the cleansing step. Over 1-2 weeks of consistent use, many users report noticeably less midday shine and a more balanced complexion.

Dry skin types can use this comfortably — particularly as a morning cleanser — though it may not provide enough moisture retention to serve as the sole cleanser for very dry skin in winter. Adding a creamy second cleanser or a hydrating toner immediately after can bridge that gap.

The value proposition is difficult to beat. At $18 for 7.1 oz, this is roughly four times the volume of most prestige cleansers at the same price, and the formula is cleaner and more thoughtful than many products costing three times as much. The generous size means a bottle lasts 3-4 months with twice-daily use.

The honest limitations are few but worth noting. The consistency is thinner than some users expect from a gel, which can make dispensing a bit messy if you're not careful with the pump. It's not a heavy-duty makeup remover — waterproof mascara and full-coverage foundation need an oil cleanser first. And while the formula is gentle enough for most sensitive skin, a small number of users report breakouts, likely from one of the plant extracts rather than the surfactants.

Naturium was acquired by e.l.f. Beauty in 2023 for $355 million, a number that reflects how effectively products like this cleansing gelée challenged the assumption that effective skincare had to be expensive. The formula is simple, the ingredients are documented, the price is fair, and the texture makes you want to wash your face. That's a cleanser doing its job exactly right.

Formula

The Science

Niacinamide's efficacy in cleansing formulations is supported by clinical evidence, though the mechanism differs from leave-on applications. A systematic review published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (Leung et al., 2021) found that topical niacinamide at 2-5% concentrations significantly reduces sebum production, improves skin barrier function, and reduces inflammatory acne lesions. While most studies use leave-on formulations, the anti-inflammatory benefits of niacinamide have been documented even with brief skin contact.

The surfactant system merits attention. Disodium cocoyl glutamate is an amino acid-based surfactant derived from coconut oil and glutamic acid. Research published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (Ananthapadmanabhan et al., 2004) demonstrated that amino acid-based surfactants cause significantly less barrier disruption and protein denaturation compared to sodium lauryl sulfate and other conventional surfactants. This translates directly to less transepidermal water loss and less post-wash tightness.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, the stable vitamin C derivative included here, has been shown in a study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (Klock et al., 2005) to convert to ascorbic acid upon contact with skin and provide antioxidant benefits. Its stability in aqueous formulations makes it a more rational choice for a water-based cleanser than L-ascorbic acid, which degrades rapidly at higher pH levels.

Sodium hyaluronate's role in cleansers has practical significance. By binding water at the skin surface during cleansing, it helps maintain hydration even as surfactants remove oils. This is particularly relevant for the compromised barriers of acne-prone and sensitive skin types, where any additional moisture retention during cleansing reduces cumulative barrier stress over time.

References

1. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance — Dermatologic Surgery (2005)
2. Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing — Dermatologic Therapy (2004)

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists increasingly recognize the value of active ingredients in rinse-off formulations, particularly for patients who struggle with multi-step routines. Board-certified dermatologists note that niacinamide at 3% in a cleanser provides supplemental benefits — especially sebum regulation and mild anti-inflammatory activity — that complement leave-on treatments. The amino acid surfactant base is frequently recommended by dermatologists for patients with compromised barriers, rosacea, or post-procedure skin, as it cleanses without contributing to the irritation cycle. This cleanser is commonly suggested as a baseline step for acne treatment routines where harsher cleansers would exacerbate the dryness caused by prescription retinoids or benzoyl peroxide.

Guidance

Susan Yara built her reputation as a beauty journalist interrogating product claims on her YouTube channel before founding Naturium in 2019. The Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée reflects that skeptic-turned-formulator ethos — it's a cleanser that delivers documented actives at published concentrations, built on the principle that even rinse-off products can contribute to a treatment routine rather than just clearing the canvas.

About Naturium Emerging Brand (2–5 years)

Naturium was founded in 2019 by beauty journalist Susan Yara and launched online in February 2020. The brand was acquired by e.l.f. Beauty in 2023 for $355 million. While the brand lacks the clinical heritage of dermatologist-developed lines, its formulations use well-studied ingredients at documented concentrations.

Brand founded: 2019 · Product launched: 2020

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

Active ingredients in cleansers wash off before they can do anything.

Reality

While contact time is shorter than a leave-on product, clinical studies on niacinamide-containing cleansers show measurable skin benefits including improved oil control and reduced inflammation. The 3% concentration here provides enough active delivery even during a 60-second wash.

Myth

Gel cleansers are always too drying for dry skin.

Reality

This formula uses amino acid-based surfactants (disodium cocoyl glutamate) rather than sulfates, combined with glycerin and hyaluronic acid, making it significantly less stripping than traditional gel or foaming cleansers. Dry skin types can use it comfortably, especially in the morning.

FAQ

Common Praise

"Gentle yet effective at removing makeup and oil"

"Leaves skin soft and balanced without stripping"

"Silky gel texture feels luxurious"

"Great value for the size"

"Works well for sensitive and acne-prone skin"

Common Complaints

"Can feel slightly drying for very dry skin types"

"Runny consistency makes dispensing tricky"

"Some users report breakouts despite gentle formulation"

"Mild unusual scent from raw ingredients"

Notable Endorsements

Created by Susan Yara, beauty journalist and YouTube influencerAcquired by e.l.f. Beauty in 2023 for $355 millionDermatologist-tested

Appears In

best cleanser for oiliness best cleanser for acne best cleanser for sensitive best cleanser for dullness

Related Conditions

oiliness acne dullness large pores sensitivity

Related Ingredients

niacinamide hyaluronic acid vitamin c glycerin