No. 3 Pore & Makeup Cleansing Balm

The double cleanse has been a cornerstone of Korean skincare for years, but even its most devoted practitioners will admit that step one — the oil cleanser or cleansing balm — rarely does anything beyond removing makeup and sunscreen. It's the workhorse step, not the exciting one. Numbuzin's No. 3 Pore & Makeup Cleansing Balm looked at that dynamic and decided the first cleanser had been coasting.

The formula is built around a concept that's genuinely practical: incorporate pore-treating ingredients directly into a cleansing balm so that the 60-90 seconds you spend massaging your face aren't just dissolving makeup — they're actively pulling sebum from pores, exfoliating congested areas, and absorbing excess oil. Green tea leaf powder at a disclosed 10,000 ppm and charcoal powder at 8,000 ppm provide mild physical exfoliation and adsorption. Three different clays — kaolin, montmorillonite, and illite — deliver the oil-absorbing effects of a clay mask during what would otherwise be a straightforward cleansing step.

The balm itself is an arresting forest green, and the color comes from actual ingredients rather than dyes. Chromium oxide greens is listed for color, but the visible particles of green tea and charcoal give the balm its speckled, earthy appearance. Scooping it from the jar with the built-in spatula, it feels solid and waxy — beeswax provides the structure — but it transforms almost instantly on warm skin into a silky, spreadable oil. The transition is satisfying, and the fine particles create a barely-perceptible gritty texture that softens as you massage.

The massage step is where this product distinguishes itself from standard cleansing balms. As you work the melted balm across your face, you can feel the green tea and charcoal particles gently buffing the surface while the oils dissolve makeup and sunscreen. Spend extra time on the nose, chin, and inner cheeks — the blackhead-prone zones — and you'll notice the balm picking up a perceptible grittiness from dislodged sebum plugs. It's not dramatic, but after a few uses, you start to see fewer visible sebaceous filaments in those areas.

The emulsification step works well. Adding water transforms the oil into a milky fluid that rinses reasonably clean, though the clay and charcoal particles mean you'll want a slightly more thorough rinse than with a standard cleansing oil. Following with a gentle second cleanser is non-negotiable here — the particle-heavy formula benefits from a proper wash-off step to ensure nothing lingers in pores.

Now, the fragrance situation. Some retailers and marketing materials describe this as fragrance-free, but tea tree leaf oil and rosemary leaf oil are both present and both clearly scented. The herbal, medicinal aroma of tea tree is unmistakable during the massage, though it dissipates within a minute or two of rinsing. If you enjoy the clean, slightly antiseptic scent of tea tree, this will feel spa-like. If you have fragrance sensitivities or simply dislike the smell of tea tree, this is a deal-breaker regardless of how well the formula performs.

The tea tree and rosemary oils aren't just for scent, though. Tea tree oil has well-documented antimicrobial properties and has been studied for its effects on acne-causing bacteria. In a rinse-off product with brief contact time, the antimicrobial benefit is modest but real — especially for skin prone to bacterial-driven breakouts around the chin and jawline. Rosemary oil contributes antioxidant properties. Both are sensible additions for an oily-skin-targeted cleanser, but both categorically disqualify this from being suitable for sensitive or reactive skin.

The jar packaging is functional but imperfect. The pop-open cap with integrated spatula is a nice hygiene touch — no fingers in the product — but users report that the dual-lid system feels slightly clunky. Opening the pop-up cap while the outer lid is on doesn't work smoothly, leading most people to just remove the outer lid entirely and use the spatula cap alone. It's a minor ergonomic issue, but in a product you use several times a week, design friction adds up.

One important caveat: this is not an everyday cleanser. The charcoal, clays, and essential oils make it too active for daily use, even for oily skin types. Two to three times per week is the sweet spot — enough to maintain pore cleanliness without over-stripping or irritating the skin. On off-nights, a gentler cleansing oil or balm keeps the double-cleanse habit going without the treatment intensity.

The texture on removal is where the balm earns bonus points. Despite the clays and charcoal — ingredients typically associated with drying, tightening clay masks — your skin doesn't feel stripped or parched after rinsing. The caprylic/capric triglyceride and other emollient oils in the base ensure the cleansing action is thorough without being harsh. Skin feels clean, smooth, and slightly refreshed rather than tight or dry.

At around $22 for 85 grams, and with the recommended 2-3 times weekly use, this balm can last three to four months — a genuinely good value for what it delivers. The concept of combining cleansing and treatment into a single step saves both time and money compared to maintaining separate cleansing balms and weekly clay masks.

This is a product that rewards patience and consistency. You won't see dramatic overnight results, but after a few weeks of regular use, the cumulative effect on pore cleanliness and blackhead reduction is real. The green tea provides antioxidant support, the charcoal and clays manage oil, and the oil base ensures everything rinses away without barrier damage. It's not glamorous skincare — there's no elegant dropper bottle or Instagram-worthy aesthetic moment. Just a jar of green stuff that quietly makes your pores cleaner twice a week.

Formula

The Science

The pore-cleansing approach in this balm operates through three mechanisms: oil dissolution, physical adsorption, and gentle mechanical exfoliation.

The oil base (caprylic/capric triglyceride and ethylhexyl palmitate) dissolves sebum through the like-dissolves-like principle — lipophilic oils break down the lipophilic sebum plugs that form blackheads and sebaceous filaments. This is the same mechanism behind all oil-based first cleansers, but the additional treatment ingredients extend the formula's utility beyond simple dissolution.

Charcoal powder's efficacy in skincare is often overstated in marketing, but the underlying science of adsorption is sound. Activated charcoal has an extremely high surface-area-to-mass ratio — up to 3,000 square meters per gram — which allows it to bind oil and organic molecules on contact. A 2017 review in the Indian Dermatology Online Journal noted that while charcoal's dermatological applications are supported by its physical properties, clinical evidence specifically for acne or pore reduction remains limited. In a rinse-off product, the contact time limits efficacy, but the adsorption effect during the 60-90 second massage period does provide meaningful surface oil removal.

The triple clay system (kaolin, montmorillonite, and illite) each brings slightly different properties. Kaolin is the mildest, primarily absorbing surface oils. Montmorillonite is a swelling clay that can absorb both oil and water, providing deeper cleansing. Illite is iron-rich and traditionally used in French clay treatments for oil-absorbing properties. While clinical studies on cosmetic clay use are limited, a 2010 study published in the International Journal of Pharmaceutics demonstrated that montmorillonite-based formulations showed significant sebum absorption capacity.

Green tea leaf powder provides both physical exfoliation and chemical benefit. The catechins in green tea — particularly EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate) — have demonstrated anti-sebum, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties in dermatological research. A 2012 study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology found that topical EGCG reduced sebum production and improved acne in a clinical trial. In a rinse-off balm, the brief contact time limits catechin absorption, but the physical exfoliation from the powder particles provides an independent cleansing benefit.

Tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) is one of the better-studied natural antimicrobials in dermatology. A 2006 systematic review in Clinical Microbiology Reviews confirmed broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria, fungi, and viruses. For acne specifically, a 2007 study in the Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and found comparable efficacy with fewer side effects. The concentration in this balm is undisclosed but likely lower than 5%.

References

1. Activated charcoal as a potential agent in dermatological practice — Indian Dermatology Online Journal (2017)
2. Epigallocatechin-3-Gallate Improves Acne in Humans by Modulating Intracellular Molecular Targets and Inhibiting P. acnes — Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2012)

Dermatologist Perspective

Board-certified dermatologists would appreciate the multi-mechanism approach to pore cleansing in this formula — combining oil dissolution with clay adsorption and gentle physical exfoliation addresses several aspects of pore congestion simultaneously. Dermatologists frequently recommend oil-based cleansers for thorough sunscreen and makeup removal, and the additional pore-treating ingredients extend the functional value of the cleansing step. However, dermatologists would flag the tea tree and rosemary essential oils as potential irritants for patients with contact dermatitis or rosacea, and would likely recommend limiting use to 2-3 times weekly rather than daily. The physical exfoliant particles, while gentle, may be contraindicated for patients with active inflammatory acne or compromised barriers.

Guidance

Part of Numbuzin's No. 3 line dedicated to pore care. While the brand's No. 3 Super Glowing Essence Toner captured most of the TikTok attention, this cleansing balm quietly built a dedicated following among K-beauty enthusiasts tired of separate cleansing and masking steps. The green color comes from actual green tea and charcoal particles rather than artificial coloring.

About Numbuzin Emerging Brand (2–5 years)

Numbuzin launched in 2019 as a K-beauty brand under parent company Benow, gaining rapid popularity through Olive Young and social media. While its formulations use well-studied ingredients, the brand has a limited independent clinical track record and relies primarily on consumer validation and viral buzz.

Brand founded: 2019 · Product launched: 2023

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

Charcoal in skincare magnetically pulls toxins and impurities from deep within pores.

Reality

Charcoal works through adsorption — its porous surface attracts and binds oil and debris on contact — not through any magnetic or deep-extraction mechanism. In a cleansing balm, the charcoal only interacts with the surface layers of the skin and the openings of pores during the brief massage period. It's effective for surface-level sebum removal but doesn't reach deep into the follicle.

Myth

Cleansing balms clog pores and cause breakouts.

Reality

When properly emulsified and rinsed (ideally followed by a second water-based cleanser), cleansing balms remove more pore-clogging material than they deposit. This formula specifically includes clays and charcoal designed to pull excess oil from pores. The key is thorough rinsing and double cleansing — leaving any cleansing balm on the skin can lead to congestion.

FAQ

Common Praise

"Dissolves heavy makeup and waterproof sunscreen without irritation"

"Noticeably reduces sebaceous filaments on nose with regular use"

"Green tea and charcoal particles provide satisfying gentle exfoliation"

"Rinses clean without leaving oily residue on skin"

"Built-in spatula in lid keeps application hygienic"

Common Complaints

"Tea tree scent is noticeable and may bother fragrance-sensitive users"

"Jar lid design with pop-open cap is awkward to use practically"

"Can be over-drying if used daily instead of recommended 2-3 times per week"

"Essential oils make this unsuitable for truly sensitive or reactive skin"

Appears In

best cleansing balm for blackheads best k beauty cleanser best cleanser for oiliness best pore cleansing balm

Related Conditions

blackheads oiliness large pores

Related Ingredients

green tea tea tree charcoal