Make It Matte SPF 45

Black Girl Sunscreen built its reputation on one revolutionary idea that should not have been revolutionary: sunscreen that does not make dark skin look ashy. The original formula proved the concept. The Kids SPF 50 extended it to children. And then came Make It Matte, the brand's attempt to solve a second problem that disproportionately affects melanin-rich sunscreen wearers: the shine that most chemical sunscreens leave behind.

The thinking is sound. Chemical UV filters solve the white-cast problem by absorbing rather than reflecting UV light, but they come dissolved in oily or emollient bases that can leave a dewy-to-greasy finish — particularly on skin that already produces abundant sebum. For anyone trying to wear makeup over sunscreen, or simply get through a workday without looking reflective, this is a daily frustration. Make It Matte promises to thread the needle: chemical filters for invisible protection, gel texture for lightweight wear, and silica-based mattifying agents for shine control.

The UV filter system is a step up from the Kids formula. Four chemical filters — avobenzone at 3%, homosalate at 10%, octisalate at 5%, and octocrylene at 10% — deliver broad-spectrum SPF 45. The addition of octocrylene is notable because it serves double duty: providing its own UV absorption while significantly stabilizing avobenzone, which is notoriously prone to photodegradation. This combination should maintain its protection better throughout a day of sun exposure than simpler three-filter systems.

The gel format delivers on the lightweight promise. It spreads easily across the face, requiring only a nickel-sized amount for full coverage. There is no white cast — not a hint, not a whisper, not even a slight ashiness. On this front, Black Girl Sunscreen continues to deliver exactly what it promises. The gel is clear, and it stays clear on every skin tone.

Where the product gets more complicated is the matte claim. User experiences diverge significantly. Some find the silica-based finish adequately matte, reporting that it controls shine and works well as a makeup base. Others describe the feel as silicone-heavy — a slippery, slightly tacky sensation that never fully sets to a true matte finish. The difference may come down to skin type: those with moderately oily skin find the mattifying effect sufficient, while those with very oily skin report breakthrough shine within a few hours.

The honest assessment is that this sunscreen produces a satin finish rather than the powder-dry matte that the name implies. If your reference point for matte is a setting powder or a truly oil-free mattifying primer, this will not meet that expectation. If your reference point is a standard dewy sunscreen, this is meaningfully less shiny. The matte-ness is relative.

The inactive ingredient list includes an eyebrow-raiser: coconut oil. For a product positioned for oily skin, the inclusion of a comedogenic oil is a puzzling choice. Its concentration is likely low — it appears well into the inactive list — but for acne-prone users who have learned the hard way to scan ingredient lists for coconut-derived oils, this is a legitimate concern. It is a small detail, but for the target audience of oily-skinned consumers, it is the kind of detail that matters.

Squalane and aloe vera provide the comfort layer, preventing the formula from feeling overly drying despite the silica mattifying agents. This is a thoughtful balance — pure mattifying formulas can leave skin feeling tight and stripped, which triggers reactive oil production that defeats the purpose. The squalane keeps the skin comfortable without adding visible shine.

The texture requires a brief setting period. Unlike water-light Japanese gel sunscreens that absorb in seconds, Make It Matte needs a good minute or two to fully set. During this window, the product can feel tacky and transfers to anything that touches your face. Once set, it holds up reasonably well, though some users report transfer to phone screens and clothing throughout the day.

At $17.99 for 1.7 fluid ounces, the pricing is fair for a face-specific sunscreen with four UV filters. It is less expensive than many comparable products at Sephora, and it is widely available at Target, Ulta, CVS, and Walmart. For a specialized face sunscreen in a mass-market retail channel, this represents reasonable value.

The product ultimately delivers about seventy percent of its promise. The no-white-cast claim is fulfilled completely — that remains Black Girl Sunscreen's core competency and it does not waver. The broad-spectrum protection is robust with its four-filter system. The matte finish is partial — better than most sunscreens, not as good as the name suggests. For melanin-rich consumers with oily skin who have been cycling through sunscreens looking for one that is both invisible and non-greasy, this is worth trying. It may not be the perfect solution, but it is a meaningful improvement over most alternatives, and the brand deserves credit for continuing to address the specific needs of an underserved market.

Formula

The Science

This formula employs a four-filter UV protection system that covers both the UVA and UVB spectrum. Avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) at 3% provides UVA protection across the 310-400 nm range, with peak absorption at 357 nm. The photostability challenge inherent to avobenzone is addressed through the inclusion of octocrylene at 10%, which acts as a triplet-state quencher — absorbing the energy released when avobenzone degrades under UV exposure and effectively regenerating its protective capacity.

Homosalate at 10% and octisalate at 5% provide UVB coverage in the 295-315 nm range. The salicylate esters are among the gentlest chemical UV filters, with low sensitization potential, which supports the formula's suitability for daily facial use. Together, the four filters create overlapping absorption profiles that deliver the broad-spectrum SPF 45 claim.

The mattifying approach relies on silica and silica silylate rather than high-alcohol formulations. Silica particles absorb sebum through their porous structure, reducing visible shine without the barrier-disrupting effects of denatured alcohol. Silica silylate — a surface-modified silica — creates a hydrophobic network that repels oil at the skin surface. This mechanical approach to oil control is generally better tolerated than chemical mattifying agents, though its effectiveness varies with individual sebum production levels.

The inclusion of squalane in a mattifying formula reflects current formulation philosophy that stripped, dehydrated skin compensates by overproducing oil. By providing a lightweight, biomimetic lipid, the formula aims to keep the skin barrier stable enough that reactive sebum overproduction is minimized — a preventive approach to shine control rather than purely absorptive.

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists frequently emphasize that for patients with melanin-rich skin, the cosmetic elegance of a sunscreen directly impacts compliance — if it looks bad, it will not be used consistently. Board-certified dermatologists note that the four-filter chemical system in this formula provides reliable broad-spectrum protection without the white cast that drives many patients with darker skin tones to skip sunscreen entirely. For patients with oily or combination skin, dermatologists may recommend this as a reasonable daily face sunscreen, while noting that the matte effect may need supplementation with blotting papers or mattifying powder for very oily skin. Dermatologists also note that chemical UV filter sunscreens like this one are preferred by many patients of color over mineral formulations, and compliance-focused dermatology practice supports this preference.

Guidance

After establishing itself with the original moisturizing SPF 30 and the Kids line, Black Girl Sunscreen recognized that oily-skinned consumers — particularly those who wear makeup daily — needed a mattifying option. Make It Matte launched as the brand's first face-specific sunscreen, targeting the combination of concerns that had kept many melanin-rich consumers from consistent sunscreen use: white cast and excess shine.

About Black Girl Sunscreen Established Brand (5–20 years)

Black Girl Sunscreen was founded in 2016 by Shontay Lundy with $33,000 in personal savings to address the lack of sunscreens formulated for melanin-rich skin. The brand has since expanded to over 12,000 retail locations including Target, Walmart, and Ulta, and has become the first Black-owned sunscreen brand in major US retailers.

Brand founded: 2016 · Product launched: 2023

Myth vs. Reality

Myth

Gel sunscreens provide less protection than cream sunscreens.

Reality

The vehicle (gel, cream, lotion) does not determine UV protection — the UV filters and their concentrations do. This gel contains four chemical UV filters at substantial concentrations providing broad-spectrum SPF 45 protection. The gel format simply affects texture and aesthetics, not the level of sun protection when applied correctly.

Myth

SPF 45 is significantly weaker than SPF 50.

Reality

SPF 45 blocks approximately 97.8% of UVB rays, while SPF 50 blocks about 98%. The practical difference is negligible. Reapplication frequency and application amount matter far more than the difference between SPF 45 and 50.

FAQ

Common Praise

"No white cast at all on melanin-rich skin"

"Lightweight gel texture"

"Good as a makeup base"

"Affordable price for a face sunscreen"

Common Complaints

"Finish is not truly matte — can feel greasy or silicone-heavy"

"Takes longer to absorb than expected for a gel"

"Transfers to clothing and hands"

"Coconut oil inclusion seems counterintuitive for oily skin"

Notable Endorsements

Available at Target, Ulta, CVS, and WalmartBlack-owned sunscreen brand

Appears In

best sunscreen for oily skin best matte sunscreen best sunscreen for dark skin best sunscreen under makeup

Related Conditions

sun damage oiliness hyperpigmentation

Related Ingredients

avobenzone octocrylene homosalate octisalate squalane